Big Brake Kit-first pics

[opus10583]

no, any 14" wheel should be fine

Thanks!

[giuliot60]

Cool.

Don't the new 500 calipers use a ABS system? How do you get around that? Just don't use it?

[So Cal Mark]

abs has nothing to do with calipers

[Ptoneill]

Mark,

I went to your on-line store I was not able to find the "basic" brake kit you mentioned in an earlier write up. Is this something you changed your mind on? I currently have brand new stainless brake lines for the OEM brakes, will they work on this new setup? If so do you offer a discount for not needing the new lines?

I got my carburator parts two weeks ago, thanks for the fast shipping!

Mark,

I am very interested in your setup, much less expensive than a "big brake" system. Can I get a PM with the cost minus the brake lines if availible?

Thanks for your time,

[ngrybrd]

this is a pretty awesome setup, do you offer just the brackets? i would already have the calipers, rotors and lines myself. also, any thoughts on doing a bracket to adapt modern fiat rear calipers?

[So Cal Mark]

the rear brakes are very similar to the Spider brakes, so other than an improved parking brake there won't really be a performance increase

[azruss]

mark, you've had them on your test vehicle for a few weeks now. can you give us an undate on how the system is performing.

[So Cal Mark]

I've put on half-a-dozen kits. The cars stop like a modern sports car, braking distance is shortened by about 25%. Pad thickness is also much thicker than the stock pads, so brake life should be really long. Pedal feel isn't much different, but when you brake hard the car really stops quickly

[Ptoneill]

I just ordered a set with the red powder coated calipers from your site......now if I could just get the engine and interior in I wold be able to test them out!!

Nice alternative to the very impressive Wilwood (read expensive) brake kit!

Thanks

[Ptoneill]

Ok I got my brakes installed, it was a bit of a chore but I have a few hints.....

1. While you have the hubs off check and replace bearings

2. The calipers I got were off a 2012, they had some miles on them, that being said Mark does provide a new set of springs, pin covers, banjo bolts and washers. I did get the caliper rebuild kit from O'rilies for $3 each and used a compressor to get the piston out. Mine needed a little internal cleaning.

3. Take the metal slide pins off the caliper, a hex driver fits on the top.

4. When you install the new caliper support bracket make sure both holes on the bracket are posited to the rear of the Car and that the one that sticks out the furthest is on the bottom. Before you put in all four bolts holding the hub and steering arm put in only the two short bolts, you can finger tighten the nuts. Put on the two long bolts for the steering arm but do not put the nuts on and just set the steering arm on the end of the bolts. Put the 19 mm black bolt in the lower hole that will support the caliper bracket once the steering arm is attached it is next to impossible to get the bolt in.

5. Put on the rotor, fit the caliper bracket over it, line up the lower 19 mm black caliper bolt and get it started, I was able to spin it in with my fingers, it is a tight between the steering arm and bracket. Once it is loosely in put in the upper silver 19 mm bolt on the bracket. Now you can completely torque the 4 bolts holding the hub and arm, along with the two 19 mm bolts.

6. Orientate the caliper so that the bleed screw and braided line are towards the top. Load your pads and place the caliper over the rotor, slide the pins into the rubber boots and line them up with the holes in the bracket and tighten evenly, the place the external spring on.


Note...!!! These steps are to be used with Marks directions, also note that adjacent to the product description for the Braden's there is a viewable PDF that has some pictures.


Here are some pictures

Old vs new

Back view


Lower caliper bolt...Black bolt but looks silver from flash

Finished!!

[So Cal Mark]

thanks for the pics and installation tips. One note however, rather than control arm, it's the steering arm that is removed/reinstalled during the upgrade.

[Ptoneill]

You of course are right!!, but it sounded better than "thingy". I went back and edited the previous post.

Can't wait to get the new wheels....by the way
LEARNING POINT!! Already have 14 or 15 inch wheels ready, I totally skipped over the Won'tfit on 13 inch wheels!!

But on the bright side ..it was a good excuse to call up Mark and get a new set!

[fiatSpidr]

Since the center hole on a new fiat 500 rotor is smaller than the 124, was there a fitment problem, or is the center hole machined out to make it fit? 2.32" (59.0 mm) on new 500 vs 2.44" (62.05 mm) on spider.

Update, measured the hub on spider and it measures 59mm seems that a little clearance is needed though. Does some on know the answer?

[Ptoneill]

It fit fine, the rotor fits flush on the hub and sits equally spaced around the hub center section.

[fiatSpidr]

It might not be a problem but I was thinking as the rotor heats up on heavy braking ( hundreds of degrees), the the metal will expand a little and might push against the hub which contains the bearings. The factory spec on the spider allowed for 3mm of clearance between the hub and the rotor, I would assume to allow for expansion. There is no room for expansion on this retrofit. It is OK to have hub centric wheels, because they don't heat up like brakes. Wonder if after a few years will the rotor be difficult to remove from rust and such with a tight fit, I know it is hard to remove the old rotors sometimes and have to use a hammer, and that has an additional clearance.
Time will tell as people start to use them and replace the pads.