Brake booster, and e-brake question/issues

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 2:28 pm

I'm glad this didn't turn into a "two page" problem.

Matt

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:21 pm

Did you fix it?

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:56 pm

I removed the kink from the e-brake and re adjusted it several times. Even though the cable slides on the yoke while it is in tension, it still favors one caliper or the other. The cable will pull on one caliper, when that one is locked then it starts to lock the other, but not completely. It works well enough to hold the car on a pretty steep incline, but if I apply the hand brake while coasting it has very little effect. Hopefully, with use it will reach an equilibrium point and act on both equally.

I've tried both air check valves and no noticeable difference between the two. I'm currently running the new plastic valve that came with the new booster.

After bleeding the calipers all the way around braking action has improved. On my test drives I braked hard on flat runs and down a few hills. A couple of times I tried to get the brakes to lock up but never could. Without holding the steering wheel the car pulls to the left. If I hold the wheel with two fingers I can't feel the pull. I've bleed the right caliper and no air. Both calipers slide on the mounting yokes. Just had an alignment less than 70 miles ago.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:07 pm

the pulling is the clue. Did you rebuild the calipers? I'm betting there is still air in the system. Have you tried reverse bleeding?

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:14 am

I did rebuild the calipers.

So far I've tried pressure bleeding from the master reservoir, bleeding from pumping the pedal, and I've tapped the caliper body with a rubber mallet while bleeding.

Is reverse bleeding pulling fluid through the system from the bleed screw? Or is it forcing fluid through the caliper bleeder screw up into the master reservoir?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:14 am

reverse bleeding would be forcing fluid through the bleed screw up into the master cylinder. I've found it to be very effective in eliminating trapped air in systems, especially at the rear compensator. Are the brake hoses in good/xlnt condition?

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 1:54 pm

Rubber brake hoses are brand new, metal lines are existing.

I can modify my pressure bleeder with a smaller feed line to fit the bleed screw. Might need to get a tiny hose clamp.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:27 pm

Mark, do you fabricate a reservoir cap to accept a drain hose or how do you do it?

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 5:10 pm

I can see doing it that way, but it might be kind of messy. I think I'll just suck out some fluid with a turkey baster so there is room for it to back up.

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:20 pm

I got a real good chance to check out my brakes after eliminating the rear proportioner. Im very happy with the results. I put it thru one rough weekend and even a few suprise stops and I never thought the bias was effected. If they behave in the rain then all is good! At first I was convinced it was a master cyl problem, and I thought it felt like it had only 2 brakes working ( all the way back from Detroit to Indy ) Matt are your ball joints good? Also mine is always a stubborn thing to bleed.

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 6:20 pm

So this weekend I got around to removing the proportioner valve. The rod enters the valve via a protective boot. AS I peeled back the boot, ALOT of crap fell out, the boot was full! This was not road dirt, it was caused by corrosion due to having the wrong metals used in conjunction with each other, IE: electralasis! The valve appears to be aluminum, the rod is steel. This is an old issue, and has caused such problems as bumpers falling off cars. I would at least empty the boot, and use some penetrating fluid. But as I already stated, mine works great without it!!!!!!