Custom Wiring Harness...

[v6spider]

I have removed the wiring harnesses from my spider and I am considering re-using the wire as it is in great shape. However I will be removing the stock connectors and upgrading them to some weather proof type of connector. Seeing how my car is totally custom naturally the circuits will be custom too. I will be stripping the unnecessary circuits and adding circuits I need. Also replacing the fuse block with something more weather proof as well.

Has anyone ever rebuilt their wiring harness? What connectors did you use, wire wrapping materials etc...?

Thanks!
Rob

[maytag]

Are you familiar with the guys & products at Painless wiring?

http://www.painlesswiring.com/

[124ADDHE]

I rewired my whole car with oversize stock-type wiring, I just soldered all my connections and double shrink insulated as well. The system is great, headlights strong (on relays), horn loud and wipers are 100% and totally adaquate when you dont have all the losses that the stock setup has with those crimped connections corroding after a short time; I really think a rebuilt wiring system is one of the best upgrades that a person can do to these cars.

[baltobernie]

Rob, if you're in a position to start from scratch, I'd suggest ditching the Spider harness in favor of a modern one like this: http://dcfiats.org/tech/Installing%20th ... less-C.pdf Not only will you upgrade to a better fuse block, you'll remove a substantial load from your ignition switch and fix once-and-for-all the byzantine hazard/turn signal circuit. If you want to use Weatherpack or other connectors instead of FastOn, be my guest (and take plenty of notes and pictures for the next guy!)

[v6spider]

Maytag: yes I have and I considered that but I need custom circuits and there system is way expensive and doesn't provide that.

124ADDHE: That's the direction I think I am going to go.

Baltobernie: Wont be ever selling my spider... keeping the stock colors for the wire will help with tracing issues. Plus I am using a column out of an 86 camaro... which eliminates all the turn hazard key switch issues cause I will be switching to the chevy circuit.

Cheers!
Rob

[maytag]

I agree, Painless is an expensive way to go... but I hate pain.

I'm getting ready to redo mine as well. I'm goin' bare minimum. (well... bare minimum and HEATED seeats! )

I think I'll be doing just as y'all are: stripping it out and starting fresh.
I'm also debating LED lighting all the way around.

[Ken]

Wiring cars is one of the things I do, I have wired quite a few cars but I don’t consider myself a professional. When I was in the Air Force I was taught to wire aircraft and there was a few things I learned, one was you don’t really want to solder the wire ends, it re-tempers the wire at the end of the solder and makes it brittle. And I have used “Painless” wire harnesses and they are not painless, I wont use another one. I have found that all wire harness’ are universal and you will have to re-purpose some of the wires. So for the painless kits besides getting all the wires to the end point and being fastened to the fuse box and then trying to move the re-purposed wires to the proper fuses it is a headache.
I also wouldn’t advise using larger wire than needed, there is no point. The higher the voltage the smaller the wire, the higher the amps the larger the wire.
I have been using wire kits from “Affordable Streetrods” out of Van Buren Kansas, he is a good guy to work with and if you are making a kit for a specific car he might make it up while you are talking to him.
And one more thing, when you are done you will be amazed how much room is under the Fiat dash.

[maytag]

Do you by chance know what SPECIFICATION wire is usually used in automotive applications?

I mean, I assume there is a spec on the insulation, as well as a standard on the thickness of the stranding (since it's all 12v, I don't want to just use a 600V/TFFN-THHN, do I? I assume the 12v wants a finer strand? )

[baltobernie]

Baltobernie: Wont be ever selling my spider... keeping the stock colors for the wire will help with tracing issues.

Notes and photos are to help out forum members, not the next owners of your car. The Painless harness has the wire function and number printed repeatedly over the entire length of each wire. Then there's also the manual, which identifies what went where. Painless also uses a lot more colors than Fiat ever did.

Maytag, the standard for automotive wire is SAE J1128. OEMs (and Painless, among others) use "TXL" spec wire with a polyethylene jacket. Not only is it incredibly strong, it is very small in diameter (because of all the wire in modern cars). 18 AWG, for example, is only 2mm in OD. The new stuff is soooo flexible, it is a delight to work with. For suggested wire gauge for specific circuits, you could look at a Painless or other harness installation manual, and use what they use.

Ken, the industry agrees with you regarding soldering. In addition to the tempering you mention, there's also the issue of flux contamination. And boy are you right about the extra room behind the cluster!

[maytag]

Maytag, the standard for automotive wire is SAE J1128. OEMs (and Painless, among others) use "TXL" spec wire with a polyethylene jacket. Not only is it incredibly strong, it is very small in diameter (because of all the wire in modern cars). 18 AWG, for example, is only 2mm in OD. The new stuff is soooo flexible, it is a delight to work with. For suggested wire gauge for specific circuits, you could look at a Painless or other harness installation manual, and use what they use.

Ok. that makes sense. The TXL is in fact an XLPE (Cross-Link-Polyethylene) wire, which to guys in the building-wire business (which I sometiems am) is good stuff.

NOW:
anyone know where I can but it in hundred-foot increments of several colors, rather than the 2500' minimums I'd have to buy through my channels?

[azygoustoyou]

It sounds like your talking in tongues to me. I just can't relate.

[v6spider]

baltobernie: soldered on waterproof connectors is fine for me. Painless isn't necessary for me. But I appreciate all the info. If the stock wire is unusable then I may go the route maytag is interested in. BTW I will be taking photos and labeling my new harness extensively although I don't know what help it will be to others as the circuits will be custom in the first place:)

Brady: Are you going to replace your wiring or repair it?
_____________________________________________________________________________
One thing I am curious about is if there is a circuit breaker type of fuse block out there. I'd like to eliminate fuses if I can.
One thing is for certain anything will be better than the stock electrical system I have an Automotive electrical book I am using as a guide but I think I can do better then what they are suggesting in there. I have electronics and electrical training so it will be a walk in the park compared to what i have done with the electronics that I have restored...

Cheers!
Rob

[124ADDHE]

Actaully, heating up copper anneals it, thats why a work-hardened copper washer can be heated and re-used, that same goes for copper wire.

[azygoustoyou]

I'm just fixing it up to match my set up.

[kbee00]

[quote="maytag
Ok. that makes sense. The TXL is in fact an XLPE (Cross-Link-Polyethylene) wire, which to guys in the building-wire business (which I sometiems am) is good stuff.

NOW:
anyone know where I can but it in hundred-foot increments of several colors, rather than the 2500' minimums I'd have to buy through my channels? [/quote]

try here:

http://www.awcwire.com/Part.aspx?code=550N25F4J1

good luckl!