Swimming Camshafts

[opus10583]

Hi,

Trying to maximize the day after finding the Universal in 'universal linkage kit' to be ironically rather than literally intended, I pulled the valve covers to measure the lashes and shims.

Here's what I found:

#1 Passenger's side

P1060052 on Flickr

#3 & #2 Driver's side

P1060049 on Flickr

#1 Driver's side

P1060048 on Flickr

Incorrect cam tower gaskets?

And: How the heck does the valve compression tool work?

Thanks,
Mark

[131]

I use a big syringe with a piece of copper pipe on the end of it to suck the oil up and squirt down the return gallery. The factory adjustment tool has 2 forks that wedge between the cam and the edge of the valve bucket, pushing it down so the shim can be flicked out. I made a tool for holding the bucket down after I wedge a modified large screwdriver between the cam lobe and shim. The screwdriver is bent so it clears the side of the cam box and has had all sharp edges removed, I've then polished it so the cam or bucket aren't damaged.

[opus10583]

I use a big syringe with a piece of copper pipe on the end of it to suck the oil up and squirt down the return gallery. The factory adjustment tool has 2 forks that wedge between the cam and the edge of the valve bucket, pushing it down so the shim can be flicked out. I made a tool for holding the bucket down after I wedge a modified large screwdriver between the cam lobe and shim. The screwdriver is bent so it clears the side of the cam box and has had all sharp edges removed, I've then polished it so the cam or bucket aren't damaged.

Hi Mick,

Thanks!

If I could find a return galley I would expect the oil to have already drained?


And I've bought a tool, $45, I think I got hosed again.

Ciao,
Mark

[131]

If I could find a return galley I would expect the oil to have already drained?

They're designed to hold plenty of oil, they can sit around for months without being turned over. The rectangular hole in the second photo is the oil return, some people drill a hole in the side to lower the oil level, but having the cams bathed in oil is a bit of insurance against scuffing the cam lobes or shims.

[opus10583]

If I could find a return galley I would expect the oil to have already drained?

They're designed to hold plenty of oil, they can sit around for months without being turned over. The rectangular hole in the second photo is the oil return, some people drill a hole in the side to lower the oil level, but having the cams bathed in oil is a bit of insurance against scuffing the cam lobes or shims.

Hi Mick,

Something new, learned today!

Now if I can just figure out the tool...

Thanks,
Mark

[azruss]

it does look like you oil level is a little high, so definitely clean out the return hole. you will find it once you suck the oil out. a turkey baster works good for this and is available at any grocery store.
Dont know what you shim tool looks like. the a 2 fork ones that will work well on all the valves except #3 exhaust because of the diffy. This one need the 1 fork version.

Here is my method.
Get yourself a pen and paper and draw a map of the valves so you can write down numbers. when the motor is cold, rotate the motor till each cam lobe is opposite the shim and measure the gap with a feeler gage. rotate the shim cup so that the notch is reachable with a small flat screwdriver. usually this position has the notch aimed toward the corner of that section of the cam housing. Once this is done, then rotate the cam so the valve is depressed. insert tool so that it holds the shim cup against the cam shaft. now, rotate the motor so the cam lobe is pointing up. at this point, the valve should still be depressed as the tool should be holding the valve down by the shim cup. take a small flat screwdriver and insert it in the shim cup notch and pop the shim up. remove shim with a magnet. measure the shim thickness with a mic or caliper. mic being the better choice. Replace the shim with a fatter or skinnier shim to get the gap right. You may find that only a couple are out of tolerance, usually the ones on the end.

[So Cal Mark]

that motor looks very dirty, evidence the oil hasn't been changed regularly. Submerging the cam in dirty or incorrect oil is no help in preventing camshaft failure. The level of oil is beneficial in cooling the valve springs

[opus10583]

that motor looks very dirty, evidence the oil hasn't been changed regularly. Submerging the cam in dirty or incorrect oil is no help in preventing camshaft failure. The level of oil is beneficial in cooling the valve springs

Oil is less than 1,000miles old and won't see another 100; previous owner is a tool.

WHAT am I doing wrong?

Valve tool gives me only ~.05 play...


P1060053 by opus10583, on Flickr

Thanks,
Mark

[opus10583]

[...]
Here is my method.
[...]rotate the cam so the valve is depressed. insert tool so that it holds the shim cup against the cam shaft. now, rotate the motor so the cam lobe is pointing up. at this point, the valve should still be depressed as the tool should be holding the valve down by the shim cup.[...]

Hmmmnnn...

Thanks Russ! ...Tomorrow.

Mark

[azruss]

looks like a homemade fork tool. i wonder if the forks are too thin and dont hold the shim cup down far enough. there isnt a lot of room in there, but should be able to pop the shim out.

[opus10583]

looks like a homemade fork tool. i wonder if the forks are too thin and dont hold the shim cup down far enough. there isnt a lot of room in there, but should be able to pop the shim out.

...VAS "finest".

[narfire]

A LITTLE THING...WHEN THE LOBE IS OFF THE SHIM(AND NOT WITH THE SHIM TOOL), TAKE A PROBE AND SPIN THE BUCKET SO THE LITTLE RECESS IS FRONT ROW CENTER. MAKES THE REMOVAL OF THE SHIM EASIER.
I ALSO USE A SMALL MAGNET ON A COLLAPSABLE ROD TO GET THE SHIM OUT ONCE YOU HAVE IT POPPED OUT OF THE BUCKET. THEY CAN SLIDE BACK UNDER THE CAM AND BECOME A PAIN TO GET OUT.

[opus10583]

Hi all,

All good info, thank you.

Vendor could have saved me an afternoon with a half-sheet print-out.

Despite the racket my exhaust cam makes, none of the valves were loose, and all but four are tight. Two being dead on and two right on the intake limit.

The #4 Exhaust is way tight: 0.012.

I've today as a last pre-season FIAT day off: What is the common substitute/work-around for the one-armed valve tool?

Thanks again,
Mark

[azruss]

Here i my homemade tools.

[131]

WHAT am I doing wrong?

Valve tool gives me only ~.05 play...

Insert the tool from the spark plug side of the cambox, it'll rotate under the cam more and push the bucket down further.