Finally. Wanted a Spider..more details!

[wizard124]

My bushings arrived late yesterday. Today, I pressed in the upper arm bushings in much the same manner as I removed the old ones....the bench vise and assorted socket method. BTW, I used a Tiger Saw and metal cutting blade to cut the heads off the rivets holding on the ball joints. Then used a punch to drive out the rivets. Much faster than grinding the heads IMO. Pictures of the old being removed..
http://s940.photobucket.com/user/a7ewiz ... ort=3&o=63


This job was actually easier than I had expected it to be. The old bushings I soaked with PB Blaster. With compression on the bushings clamped by the vise, simple tapping with a hammer induced enough vibration that they worked free. For the installation they went in dry and just a little at a time, tapped with a hammer under pressure. I used the long bolt to check alignment during the process ensuring the bushings did not cock to one side (I don't know if this is even possible? Are they self-aligning as they are set further into the arm?). Regardless, I didn't want to take any chances. Also, I checked the fit of the arms on their mounts to make sure I didn't press the bushings in too much to the point they wouldn't go on.

Fortunately, the frame shows very little rust. I used a cleanser/degreaser and brushed down the shock towers. Then I painted the area with a small foam brush and Rustoleum.



This week, I'll take the lowers to a machine shop to remove and replace those bushings.


Then it all goes back together

[wizard124]

I picked up my lower arms yesterday from the machinist. He charged me $60 to remove and replace the 4 bushings. I find this price to be fair considering that everything is more expensive here in the San Francisco area. I figure by doing the individual item (ball joints and bushings) replacements rather than replacing the upper and lower arms, I came out about $100 ahead. Maybe more since I saved on the shipping the heavier arms would add, and many more days on jack stands (I had overlooked ordering the bushings in the original parts purchase )

I put all the suspension back in place today. The arms and springs cleaned and painted. The hubs and bearings thoroughly cleaned and re-greased (one outer bearing and race replaced), spindle nut adjusted and locked. New rotors installed. New outer sway arm bushings.


It went back together pretty easily. A few pointers I want to share of the process..
Take lots of digital pictures of the dis-assembly so that you can refer to them later (especially if taking the brake shield and spindle apart). I had to remove one of the hooks on the lower end of the internal spring compressor to make it fit within the spring. Then re-connected it once that hook was properly positioned within the spring. For the installation, I compressed the spring (I had to remove the compressor to accomplish the painting). But remember to set the hooks a couple/few coils from either end because the hooks like to bind with the control arms (I again needed to remove one of the hooks while it was inside the spring to remove the lower hook set. Also, needed to beat and curse the wedged hook loose ). Adding a 3/4 x 2-3 inch pipe nipple and a couple of greased washers allows an extra inch of spring compression. Easier to connect the sway bar end before putting the wheel hub onto the arms. Remember that the base of the ball joint mounts flush to the bottom side of each control arm. Use a regular nut to initially set the ball joints. Keep each side's parts separate and in their own boxes. While it all makes sense when it comes apart, after the cleaning, painting and a few weeks time, those pictures are priceless

[wizard124]

I finished the front end yesterday. New front brake lines. Calipers were cleaned and painted. My caliper seals were OK, but i replaced the protective boots, worked the calipers back and forth, and flushed and blew clean the calipers. I changed out all the steering ends and a new center link. KYB's are only a couple hundred miles used.

The result of the road test Great The improvement in ride quality is certainly worth the effort.

I tried to tighten the steering but that 17mm nut is proving to be stubborn!. I hit it with Blaster and will try tomorrow. Should it break free pretty easily? I must of put 50 ft.lbs+ to it but didn't want to break something by wrenching it more.

One other tip: I had measured the length of the tie rods from the center link stud to the steering arm stud. On the re-build, I adjusted the tie rods using these numbers. The car is driving straight without pulling. Good enough until I get new tires and have the alignment done.

[Exit98]

Nice work, what a difference a tight front end makes.

Keep the updates coming.

[wizard124]

I used Liquid Nails and some pieces from a rubber mat to repair a couple of cracks in one of my liners. Seems to be a strong bond.


One more pictures before the liner goes back:


I also was able to free the steering box lock nut and tighten the play.

[wizard124]

I took on the job of replacing all the front fuel lines. My mechanic had highlighted this as a "MUST" due to the fire hazard from a leak from an old deteriorating fuel line. The marine forums are all outraged over the effect ethanol fuel has on older fuel tanks and engines. Wouldn't the same be true in our old Fiats Ethanol acts as a solvent allowing debris to flow downstream into the carb/FI and eat away at old fuel lines.

I have never removed a fuel rail and injectors before.......Aside from the tight fit and access issue, It wasn't very complicated. The PO had replaced a couple of the FI lines (Why wouldn't you do them all at once? ) The #3 injector was missing the small seal and seemed to be packed in grease?? Surprise, surprise My earlier smog test showed air leaking in from some place.


I cleaned out the injector screens with a can of electronics cleaner. Some gunk in #1 but I didn't notice anything come from the others. I also found this filter (more gunk) in the cold start valve line. No mention of this in my manual. It may be integral to the stem in the CSV?


I replaced a few old engine lines with new silicone lines. Before:


And after:


Took her for a short test drive this afternoon: Definitely a smoother idle and seems to have a bit more pep!

[RRoller123]

I haven't seen that filter in my CSI line. (80 FI) Where was it located along the line?

[wizard124]

I haven't seen that filter in my CSI line. (80 FI) Where was it located along the line?

The filter was in the line between the rail and CSI, loose. The head on that filter seems to be a press fit into the CSI stem. I pressed it back, but didn't fully seat it.

[RRoller123]

I am pretty sure that has nothing to do with stock. Maybe a PO had a clogging problem with that injector and added it. It is an odd place to put a filter, typically you want it at the head end to protect an entire system, not just one segment or branch.

[wizard124]

The car continued to have a low idle condition when cold. I had confirmed the functionality of both the Thermo Time Switch and the Cold Start Valve prior to replacing the fuel lines and injector seals.

Working on a cold engine, I disconnected the air lines to both sides of the Auxiliary Air Regulator. This AAR was found to be closed and hard to blow air through. Starting the engine with the downstream hose open and the snorkel side plugged, it fired right up to a higher RPM and then died. This confirmed an air starved condition at cold start.

I found a spare AAR (many parts were included in my purchase). In a used condition but the AAR was open and not constricted. I installed it, along with new silicone hoses to find out if it works. I'm in luck Good cold start with a higher idle. I allowed the engine to fully warm up. I noticed only minor RPM variations.

Raining today. The test drive will have to wait.

[wizard124]

Time off due to a short vacation and back at it with the Fiat

The replaced AAR is working like a charm. The engine fires right up and idles more strongly when cold...no need to modulate the throttle, etc.

I have the car on jacks now to take the wheels to the tire shop. The kid there told me my tires were older than he is The spare was an original Michelin....he said it fell apart taking it off the rim.

I decided to stick with the original rims. They are Speedline "Iron Cross". In pretty good condition, except for some curb rash. I used a belt sander to take down and remove most of the rash on a couple of rims, applied JB Weld 2 part epoxy to fill in some gouges, then sanded it down to a smoooth rim. Today, they went to be powder and clear coated to a shiny aluminum finish. Pics later.

For tires, after some research on the web, I decided on Achilles "Platinum" in 185/70R13. I ordered them on line and received them in 2 days Hopefully, the car will be back on the road inside of 2 weeks.

Tomorrow's task is to undercoat the rear wheel wells.

[RRoller123]

Side but related question: Can these AAR's be refurbished in any way? They are darned expensive to buy new!

[4uall]

Apparently,

here is some info I found
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=34030

Those Bosch L-JetTronic parts are on lots of German cars in the same era. Easy to find in the pick-n-pull...

[RRoller123]

Thanks for the info!

[wizard124]

Apparently,

here is some info I found
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=34030

Those Bosch L-JetTronic parts are on lots of German cars in the same era. Easy to find in the pick-n-pull...

I think I'll tinker with the bad one I have. I'll post a thread on the process

Warren