Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm

[Broadsword]

I have spent too many hours now and destroyed two ball joint separators trying to remove the track rod end ball joint from the Pitman arm (see photo).
I have tried persuasive taps with a hammer, drowned the entire assembly in every lubricant known to man, and still no sign of the bugger breaking free.
I even had a metre long pipe extension added to a socket arm to provide greater bending moment to a separator, but all I did was strip the thread.
So my final option is getting a blow torch onto the Pitnan arm.
My question is, will this do any harm to the strength of the arm?
Does anyone have any other alternatives?
So close to having everything out!
Thanks,
Broadsword

[vandor]

Did you try a pickle fork? It's the only separator that actually works... Basically a fork you hammer between the joint and the arm that gets thicker and thicker, so after hammering it for a while it pushes the two apart.

The other method is to hit the end of the arm with a large hammer, so it makes the hole in the middle oval for an instant.
You have to hit it really hard a few times, but it has worked for me in the past.

I don't think heating it would have a negative effect, but you should not have to do that.

[quanta2]

I had to heat mine yesterday. I used a separating fork until it finally destroyed the tie rod end. Then a lot of heat, and it finally gave up. The other end came right off with fork.

[focodave]

Anyone who tells you that you should not have to heat it up simply has never had one stuck that badly themselves -- so they don't believe it is necessary.
Believe me -- I had a ball joint that would not come loose no matter what I tried. I took the steering knuckle to a shop that specializes in front suspension.
They had to heat up the knuckle to get the ball joint to come loose. They told me they have never seen one that stubborn in all the years they have been doing front end work. (20+ years)
It does happen. Heating it will probably do a lot less damage than beating the SH*t out of it.
The amount of heat required will not alter the mechanical integrity of the metal.
You will probably not have to heat it until it is cherry red.

[focodave]

This is the tool we used to apply constant heavy pressure to the ball joint while heating up the knuckle boss until it popped. (got the tool fairly cheaply from Harbor Freight Tools)
It let out a very sharp and loud "ping" when it popped.

[Broadsword]

Did you try a pickle fork? It's the only separator that actually works... Basically a fork you hammer between the joint and the arm that gets thicker and thicker, so after hammering it for a while it pushes the two apart.

I tried a pickle fork; however it got to the point that I was hitting it so hard I was concerned about the force that would be carried through into the steering assembly.

I have used a separator similar to he last post as well, so I will have another go with each before applying heat.

The other side came out with relative ease.

Thanks everyone.

[pluktv]

I have just gone through this, all the joints came off ok with use of a pickle fork and a big bloody hammer- except the one that is in the centre of your picture. Couldn't shift it for love or money, tried everything. I was concerned that I too would end up damaging something else in the process. So I decided to leave that one be, I will take it into a car shop when I have the alignment done, and they can fit it for me.
It's annoying, everything went pretty well except that one joint.

[fillupd]

+1 for the Harbor Freight ball joint tool. That tool has paid for itself a hundred times (for me anyway) I absolutely love it. I wouldn't attempt to split a tie rod end or ball joint without it now, after having used it.

[spider2081]

When using the tool in the photo (harbor Freight) I leave the nut on the tie rod so it is flush with the last thread. I feel that gives the tool more surface and it is not as likely to slip off. Also after a fair amount of tension is felt by tightening tool I hit it the square end with a 3 lb hammer like its a pickle fork.

[DieselSpider]

In extreme situations I use a pickle fork attachment on an air hammer. Gets the job done with less stress to the steering box or idler assembly if you check the forces generated using a large hammer or dolly.

If you shop around you can find a set of pickle forks that have a screw on handle that convert to an air hammer drive easily so they can be used in manual strike mode or with an air hammer. Air hammers are only around $10 at your local Harbor Freight (there are about 4 or so in the Tampa area).

[garion]

I too have use the harbor freight tool.. I also recommend have the nut on (unlike the picture above), to prevent things from flying when they eventually do separate..

[narfire]

In extreme situations I use a pickle fork attachment on an air hammer

Damb...another tool for the tool box. (I love the proper tool to do the job..)
I have my Fiat up on the hoist to swap out the lower bushings so I suspect I'm going to have to separate the blower ball joint.....

[spider2081]

You can YouTube A couple videos showing changing them with out removing anything but the swing arm nut.

[narfire]

You can YouTube A couple videos showing changing them with out removing anything but the swing arm nut.

That just made my day....thank you

[Broadsword]

Well I tried everything last night and at long last I had success with the separator I have (similar to the Harbour Freight item).

I was surprised to see how good the ball joint looked once extracted, i.e. in terms of the section that was stuck.

It took an awful lot of force to finally pop; the metal pipe is an extension I had to the end of a socket arm to get the required force.



Not sure if it will be visible, but the nut was deformed from the pressure of the separator:



Now for the next task?