Steering Idler Fluid Change

[Frog2Spider]

DieselSpider wrote:
If the check balls and dampening function were not working then you should not see any difference when putting in the ball bearing idler since it does not provide any dampening either.

So I spent $140.00 for nothing?

Dave.

[RRoller123]

Definitely will put this in my "things to do list". Any thoughts about the steering box? Same oil? I read a thread about adjusting tightness for one inch of steering wheel play. Besides that adjustment and oil , anything else to do with steering box?

Same oil, and one inch of play when wheel is centered, yes.

[KevAndAndi]

What's the consensus on lubricating the ball-bearing version of the idler? I think some people use lithium grease and some use nothing. I was thinking some dry Teflon spray lube, and maybe giving it a fresh spray at the start of each driving season.

[DieselSpider]

What's the consensus on lubricating the ball-bearing version of the idler? I think some people use lithium grease and some use nothing. I was thinking some dry Teflon spray lube, and maybe giving it a fresh spray at the start of each driving season.

Ball bearings scream packed in grease or floating in gear lube so a spritz of dry spray lube once a year is not the best choice. You have to match up the same family of grease that it came packed with so you won't have compatibility issues or clean it out and replace it entirely with your favorite grease and then stick with it.

Grease is picky and many types are incompatible with anything else and will fail by separating and turning gritty if you mix them with or expose them to another type of grease or lubricant.

[RRoller123]

As I posted earlier, my idler was dry.

I only drove the car a short distance after the install, but I honestly felt very little, if any, difference in the steering. This, after spending $160 for the new idler, was disappointing, and makes me ponder the importance of replacing it, except for the thought that the original might one day seize. Anyway, bottom line, 'one less thing to worry about'!

Dave

This is very surprising, usually there is a great improvement in ease of steering? Odd.

[DieselSpider]

If the old one is creaking then there may be a big difference from lubing or replacing it with a ball bearing unit however if is was loose and not providing any dampening at all then it won't be that noticeable. Mine was creaking and there was a an immediate change after filling it with gear lube then after a bit of use steering is even easier still.

[KevAndAndi]

What's the consensus on lubricating the ball-bearing version of the idler? I think some people use lithium grease and some use nothing. I was thinking some dry Teflon spray lube, and maybe giving it a fresh spray at the start of each driving season.

Ball bearings scream packed in grease or floating in gear lube so a spritz of dry spray lube once a year is not the best choice. You have to match up the same family of grease that it came packed with so you won't have compatibility issues or clean it out and replace it entirely with your favorite grease and then stick with it.

Grease is picky and many types are incompatible with anything else and will fail by separating and turning gritty if you mix them with or expose them to another type of grease or lubricant.

My steering idler (from AR) did not have any grease packed in the bearings. Ramzi told me that he uses lithium grease but that he thinks most folks use no additional lubrication.

My concern about using grease was that the idler is not "air tight" and because of its position would collect a lot of road grit which would then get stuck in the grease and therefore the bearings.

[DieselSpider]

If its open framed and uses roller bearings that are sealed on both sides then packing it with grease is fairly pointless ao I will stay with the old style and just check the fluid level every year. You do not really want to spray a sealed bearing down with anything that could potentially break down the seal or migrate past it and cause compatibility issues with the grease inside.

[Frog2Spider]

The bearing style idler I received was also dry. I therefore put a solid layer of grease around the outside perimeter of both bearings, before installation.

My original idler was dry, but not seized. It did have 2 ball valve springs that were not returning the balls to their closed position, which is why I replaced it. I have noticed very little difference (if any) in the steering, since replacing it with the new bearing style idler.

The steering feels fine. It is a little 'heavier' since I installed the 15" wheels and wider tires, but this I expected.

Also as noted, I've only driven the car a couple of miles since the change, so maybe it will 'lighten up' somewhat after some use.

Dave

[tima01864]

The idler is angled to the front, Does the idler need to be leveled off when filling?

[Odoyle]

No, my understanding is that it should not be completely full, in order for fluid to move about

[RRoller123]

Just to the fill plug.

[DieselSpider]

If you are filling it especially for the first time in decades filling to the plug without cleaning it up so no dirt will fall inside when you remove the top sections followed by removing the top sections and filling the lower section first will only give you a false impression that you've done something productive. Many find after they filled to the plug without removing the top first along with the valve chamber and filling the area below that the lower section once they do finally remove the top sections is still completely dry.

[tima01864]

I took off the cover, oil spurted out, a good seal. The 2 o rings looked okay, I could replace the the inner one. The bowl was full a little sludge, cleaned it out with a syringe and paper towels. Filled it up with gl4 gl5 synthetic 75-80 W (all i could find, No one i talked to knows what EP is), put the cover back undid the bolt and filled some more. i will keep an eye on those o-rings.

[RRoller123]

If you are filling it especially for the first time in decades filling to the plug without cleaning it up so no dirt will fall inside when you remove the top sections followed by removing the top sections and filling the lower section first will only give you a false impression that you've done something productive. Many find after they filled to the plug without removing the top first along with the valve chamber and filling the area below that the lower section once they do finally remove the top sections is still completely dry.

Agreed, the whole thing has to be completely cleaned out, then fill to the plug. I did a long write up on this a few years ago, with some pictures, if I remember. Probably available in a search here. It has a really unique way of circulating the fluid, past 2 spring loaded ball check valves, very interesting. The fluid actually moves from bottom to top chamber, then is returned to the bottom chamber on the other side. Seems overdone, but it works!

Pete