parking brake cable

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Steiny, the way I look at it is that brake fluid is cheap, and so once you go to the trouble of putting the car up on jack stands or the like and removing the wheels, it doesn't make sense to try to skimp on a few bucks of brake fluid. If I've rebuilt those bad boys in the rear, I might use a standard container (12 oz?) of brake fluid to flush out the air and any contaminants I might have left behind. No need to get carried away and use a quart of brake fluid, but no need to try to conserve it.

I'm sure you know this, but brake fluid will do a number on your car's paint, and on most epoxy garage floor coatings if you have this. Don't spill any...

-Bryan

[RRoller123]

AND it is explosively flammable, be careful.

[SteinOnkel]

Steiny, the way I look at it is that brake fluid is cheap, and so once you go to the trouble of putting the car up on jack stands or the like and removing the wheels, it doesn't make sense to try to skimp on a few bucks of brake fluid. If I've rebuilt those bad boys in the rear, I might use a standard container (12 oz?) of brake fluid to flush out the air and any contaminants I might have left behind. No need to get carried away and use a quart of brake fluid, but no need to try to conserve it.

I'm sure you know this, but brake fluid will do a number on your car's paint, and on most epoxy garage floor coatings if you have this. Don't spill any...

-Bryan

Thing is I still have 1000ml of Motul RBF660 (don't trust anything else in my cars) in brand-new and sealed jugs. I'm just wondering if that's enough to flush the whole system or I need to order more.

First restoration I did I accidentally ordered 5 gallons of brake fluid

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I imagine 5 gallons was sufficient. Perhaps you even had a little left over, like 4.8 gallons...

But seriously, 1 liter (a little more than a quart) of the Motul should be plenty. Just don't inadvertently run the master cylinder dry when bleeding. Been there, done that.

-Bryan

[SteinOnkel]

I imagine 5 gallons was sufficient. Perhaps you even had a little left over, like 4.8 gallons...

But seriously, 1 liter (a little more than a quart) of the Motul should be plenty. Just don't inadvertently run the master cylinder dry when bleeding. Been there, done that.

-Bryan

Good tip. I'll be replacing it and the lines to the reservoir while I'm in there. Perfect opportunity and I can guarantee the master will break 3 days after I fix my caliper if I don't replace it

What hose type do you recommend to the reservoir?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

What hose type do you recommend to the reservoir?

Unless you're into extreme performance stuff, I'd just suggest any suitable diameter (1/4"??) tubing that is rated for brake fluid usage. I'm trying to recall, but I have to say at this point that I don't recall ever having to replace the original tubing that went from the brake fluid reservoir to the two connections on the master cylinder. The original tubing that I had, even as old as it was, appeared in good shape and showed no signs of having cracked, split, or leaked. Others can disagree, but I'm of the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of thinking.

-Bryan

[DieselSpider]

Very informative answer as always DieselSpider, thank you.

My rear-right caliper is leaking and needs to be rebuilt anyways. I'll tackle that after I'm done with the front suspension.

Which Bellevilles do I need? 7/16?

And how much brake fluid do these bad boys take for a full flush?

I have not found any perfect matches out there yet. The ID is for a 7/16" or 11mm bolt so 57/128" (0.4445"), OD is 1 7/64" (1.1085"), Height is 9/128" (0.685") and Thickness is 1/32" (0.315"). Fastenal had the closest match listed but the ID was 10mm in 301 Stainless Steel with a 702 Newtons rating so they would have to be cleanly drilled out without distorting them and the cost is around $1.21 apiece:

https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasten ... r+Diameter

Midwest Bayless and C Obert have them but only used with some rust/corrosion on them for around $1.79 apiece:
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fiat-12 ... ll-u8.aspx



As for how much brake fluid to flush it depends on how long its been since the last flush and how humid the weather is in your location. A quart is less than $10 and right now where I am Advance Auto has had DOT3 on sale for $4.99 a quart making the quart a good choice since its better to have a bit too much then to run short. You flush each wheel until the fluid has come out clear for more than just a moment and it takes what it takes to get there. On some cars you'll want to flush again in another month if you found it really dark and syrupy.

[SteinOnkel]

"As for how much brake fluid to flush it depends on how long its been since the last flush and how humid the weather is in your location."

Time since the last flush? If I were to venture a guess I would say it's the factory fill + topped off for the last 41 years.

I have take every car I own on the racetrack, so it'll be Motul Racing Brake Fluid 660 for me

I'm going to put a set of motorcycle carbs on the engine soon, but I held them up against it and the clearance to the brake booster is mighty short. Do you know if the AR booster (mine is blown anyways) is a little slimmer than the stock unit?

[DieselSpider]

"As for how much brake fluid to flush it depends on how long its been since the last flush and how humid the weather is in your location."

Time since the last flush? If I were to venture a guess I would say it's the factory fill + topped off for the last 41 years.

It's sad that so many scoff at brake fluid flushes. The vast majority of brake cylinder failures that people have had and metal brake line fails could be avoided by following the 2 year flush schedule.

The last brake system I flushed had algae growing in the reservoir making it so I had to pull it and wash it out with an algaecide and the fluid that came out of the calipers was foamy/sudsy having Crema like an Espresso.

[tima01864]

Talking about flushing the brake lines, I need to replace the three way fitting above the axle. Should I drain the resevoir and bleed out all the fluid before replacing the three way fitting?

[DieselSpider]

Talking about flushing the brake lines, I need to replace the three way fitting above the axle. Should I drain the resevoir and bleed out all the fluid before replacing the three way fitting?

If you work fast then no you don't have to. That fitting is after the compensator so if you support the car from the frame with jack stands the compensator will be closed up and will restrict flow. It can make things easier it you don't completely drain the system if you really don't have too. Its really a personal preference.