Brake problems

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 11:33 am

I've tried every trick I could think of, and everything in the forums aswell. The problem is that I can't get the piston on the rear passanger side to seat far enough in to go over the new pads and rotor I got (from Vick's). I've managed to do little more than destroy my brake spreader (it's literally in pieces on the floor). For now I'm going to have to try and put one new and one old pad on or something so I can at least get it drivable again. Anything else I might try for when I pull off the wheel to have another go?

Things I've tried:

Loosened bleeder screw
Loosened hand brake cable
Put caliper back on without rotor & used spreader (and destroyed spreader)
Tapped on the piston with old pad and hammer
Used end of hammer and applied pressure
Cry and pray

Edit:
One new and one old didn't work even. I put both old pads (both worn down to less than half thickness) and it was a tight squeeze to get it on over those. It seems more like all my efforts have brought the cylinder OUT instead of in. I also managed to twist the groove out of alignment and have to figure out a way to get it straight again. Guess I'll not be driving any time soon :/

Mark_vaughn · Post by **Mark_vaughn** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 12:29 pm

I am not an expert, but here are my two cents.

Open the top of the resevoir, make sure your parking brake isn't on, and I have always used a "C" clamp to compress mine. They make them in all sizes, they are practicly indestructible and create ALOT of force.

If it still doesn't fit, something may be the wrong size or not original to the car even. Never know what those previous owners did.

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 12:46 pm

I'll try the top of the resevoir and a clamp once I find a ride to the hardware shop. I'm pretty sure the caliper is original... I might end up just having to replace all of them since only one hasn't given me headaches. I've been looking into various options, but would rather spend money getting the engine tuned up than on a new brake system and new wheels.

Update:

Managed to borrow a giant 6-inch clamp from the neighbors. Took the cap off the reseviour, double checked the hand brake, loosened the bleeder screw... and still can't manage to get it compressed any more. I'm wondering if it might just be fully seated or be jammed somehow. I'm really trying to avoid having to take the caliper off since I don't want to have to bleed the system right now... but I might not have much choice it seems. Anyone else have some advice?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 2:37 pm

STOP!! the pistons on the rear have to be screwed back in! You'll need a tool that fits the slot in the piston to turn it while applying SOME force. That's the only way to collapse the piston back into the caliper. If the dust boot is worn or dried out, apply some lubricant to the edge of it to keep it from tearing when turning the piston

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 3:22 pm

I'll look for the tool the next time I'm at the store. Even at Vicks they were telling me to just try and push it harder. I guess I learned a lesson... ask So Cal Mark first ;P Thank you for the advice. Hopefully the next person to have this problem will find this thread.

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 5:49 pm

I tried everything too. just replaced them, then my front bleeder stripped so I replaced all 4.

Spyderbuddy · Post by **Spyderbuddy** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 5:59 pm

stop again listen to mark the rear calipers screw back in. the tool is for screwing the piston back into the caliper the tool looks like a square with pegs on it

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:57 pm

I'm still running old pads on the rear, but I have a larger problem now. My front brakes are bluing the rotors very quickly, and with light application of the brakes. I've already had to replace the front right caliper, and looking at doing the left aswell. It's pulling to right right pretty bad right now, so I'm going to be replacing the hoses on both sides once I can get the old ones off (yay! rust!).

I've heard alot of people say the brake system on these cars is not sufficent, but how hot should the rotors get under light traffic with a pure stock setup?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:15 pm

any rotor will get too hot to touch after driving, but the rotors shouldn't turn blue. If it's pulling when braking, the caliper on the other side isn't working. If it's pulling all of the time when driving, the caliper on that side is dragging

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 4:17 pm

It's a very light blueing, only around the very edge of the rotor. I'd say it was the new pads/rotors, but the old rotors had it too. The smell of burning brake pads started to dissappear very quickly, so I'm not worried about that. Right now I'm going to be heading to get new wheel bearings and the new front left caliper.