windshield frame

[mbouse]

anyone have the opportunity to cut open a Spider windshield frame? is it hollow? is it hollow in the front two corners? how far down the side rail is it hollow?

[manoa matt]

Yeah, a couple of them. The frame is basically a big "C" channel that the gasket sits in. And the gasket is a "C" channel that the glass sits in. The gasket does not take up all the space within the frame only about 1/2. The brackets, visible in the door jambs are cast iron and extend up into the frame about 1 inch, then there's an angled extension of the bracket that extends up another 4-6 inches and is welded to the chromed metal frame.

Does your frame have rust or did those pop rivets come out of the weatherstrip piece?

I can get you pictures and measurements later tonight when I get home.

[mbouse]

i bought a lighted rear view from a 124 Coupe, and am brainstorming how to install it in the spider and hide the wiring.

[rlux4]

You don't need a lighted mirror in your car Mike. Just put your makeup on before you leave the house.
Ron

[mbouse]

dang, why didn't i think of THAT?

ron, you're a lifesaver!

[manoa matt]

Mike,

I didn't get a chance to snap some pics last night, but considering what you want to do, it is possible. The wire will have plenty of room between the gasket and chrome frame, but you will need to un-bolt and remove the frame. I've replaced two windshields and removed and replaced two frames in the three years I've had my car (don't ask, long story) I've learned something each time and it gets easier, however cracking the windshield is a possiblity when re-fitting the assembily, and the more you take it apart and move it around the more likely.

I would suggest getting the light mounted and the wire ready. Get two friends and loosen the bolts on each side of the frame. The top nut is welded to the frame, so the top bolt on either side will just unscrew. The bottom bolt on each side is a true nut and bolt, so upon removal you need to keep the nut from spinning. I usually remove the lower bolts and loosen the uppers and when ready just unscrew the last few threads.

Have a person on each side loosen and remove the bolts. Once the bolts are removed the person on each side will pry out slightly and slide up the frame. The glass and gasket should stay where they are. Slide the frame up enough to finish mounting the light and run the wire along the top of the gasket over to one side. Gently pry the frame out on the side and run the wire down inside the frame You'll have to find a suitable spot to poke the wire into the cabin and possibly seal it.

If all that is too much trouble you could run the wire along the upper gasket to the side, and then hide it with the weatherstripping or the black metal piece that holds the weatherstrip.

[azygoustoyou]

You know, they now have make up that can be permanent! It's like getting a tattoo.

[mbouse]

thanks Matt. Long term that is the way i think i will go... but, short term, i think i will wait until it is time to replace the windshield. YOU SCARED ME

With my luck, i'd drill into the glass attempting the method i was originally thinking.

for now.... the wire will reside outside.

new question to the group..same topic. years ago i used some very small gauge wiring for a low voltage application putting lights in my daughter's doll house. this wiring came in a pair with a clear adhesive strip securing the wiring pair to the doll house walls. is there a similar product anyone has seen for 12 VDC and 8 amps?

[launieg]

Mike, from what I recall: Total Watts, divided by volts = amps. If you are drawing 8 amps on a 12v circuit, then your mirror bulb would be 96 watts. Not likely.

I suspect the bulb is far smaller, maybe 10 watts at best. So you would only draw about 1 amp. According to the charts I've seen, you could use a number 29 or 30 gauge wire for that very low amperage - very thin, especially if multi-strand (which is more efficient). The short run will drop the current only very slightly, so that's not an issue. You should only need one wire (using the window frame as earth/negative). So you would have only one very-thin strand to hide/tuck away.

Sorry I don't know about the stick-on wire. Oh, and a disclaimer: I'm no electronics expert, so I could have this all wrong

[mbouse]

yeah, right. only one wire really needed. do not have the mirror yet, but will look at the bulb when it gets here.

i'm no electrical expert either, he's in Indianapolis. will touch base with him when the bulb arrives, but thanks for the idea.

[Flyingthere]

Mike if it makes you feel any better I have my windshield off my car and did a frame swap. I had to remove one of the visor screws installed by the po and found it was about an inch long and just made a hole in the top of the gasket. Their is a lot of room in the frame. I found that removing the entire frame with windshild and putting it on a work bench made life so much easier.

[adrians]

Mike

- The mounting plate for the coupe mirror is larger than the original mounting plate for the Spider's mirror and may stick up over the lip of the windsreen and foul the roof !

Just check that !

[mbouse]

thanks for the heads up adrians... still waiting on delivery. the mirror is crossing that magical geo-political boundry from the great cousin to the north (canada) .. and the boyz at the customs office must be taking their sweet time inspecting it for hazardous materials.

[baltobernie]

Hey Mike, did you buy a visor mirror or a rear-view mirror?

[mbouse]

rear view with a light