'79 Fiat spider 2000 with alot of problems

[NitroDemon]

Ok heres the deal guys, I recently purchased an old 79 fiat spider 2000 as a project car. It ran and I drove it home.. but it runs a bit odd.. First off theres a Knocking noise from down in the oil pan which I originally thought once I located the sound that it was a connecting rod but I'm not so sure now. I did a couple tests that would have effected the sound of the knocking, put thicker oil in to see if it would get quieter; no change. Held the break and revved up the engine to put it under a load to see if the knocking would get louder; no change. So I did a lil snooping around and noticed there is a rather decently large dent in the bottom of the oil pan.. could the oilpump be damaged and causing the noise?? And finally judging by all the surface rust on the floor pans on the passenger side, and the fact that the old heater core is missing its valve and must have poured water into the car at one point.. someone completly butchered the heater system which inturn caused them to destroy the choke on my carb.. Take a look at this picture I took:
Would anyone be able to tell me how all these hoses hooked up and where the originally went?
Pictures would be great, or a diagram showing them would be wonderful too.
Thanks guys!

[spiderrey]

A large dent in the pan usually leads to a broken oil pump pick up. Run the motor some more and you will destroy it if its not destroyed yet. Had a 79 with a bad dent in the pan also, I stopped running it before I damaged the motor. 79 is the worst year as it has all those hoses for smog. Does or did it show oil pressure?

[So Cal Mark]

the oil pump could be broken and it's possible the crankshaft is hitting the broken piece. But usually the broken piece will get shoved out of the way quickly. A more likely possibility is that the auxillary shaft is mistimed and the fuel pump lobe is hitting the crankshaft. I wouldn't run the engine anymore until you inspect it. It's possible to break the block from that contact.
As for the hoses, it looks like the emission equipment has been removed, and the missing hoses operated the various emission components.

[NitroDemon]

I was under the impression the carb is water operated.. When the engine is cool, the wing valve on the carb closes to choke the motor and as the car heats up the choke opens. Are all those hoses really not needed? I live in Washington state and the car is too old for emissions which is good because all the smog equipment has long been removed. I haven't ran the car since I brought it home and parked it in the garage to work on it so I don't remember if the oil pressure gage read or not. The engine still ran strong even with the knocking but to start it you have to hold the wing valve on the carb closed to start it when cold.

[spiderrey]

As Mark said, check the position of all the wheels on the timing belt to make sure they are correct before running the engine.

[So Cal Mark]

the choke is water operated, the rest of the carb is not. You can hook up the water to the choke without any of the emission equipment. There are two ports for water; one at the rear end of the intake manifold, the other just above the curve in the heater pipe from the water pump. Then you can set the choke so that it's closed with a cold engine.
Or you could replace the carb with a 32/36dfev using an electric choke and gain about 20hp

[Fiat88]

Was glad to get rid of that carb, a real pain with all those hoses. Go with the 32/36 DFEV like Mark suggested.

[NitroDemon]

Was glad to get rid of that carb, a real pain with all those hoses. Go with the 32/36 DFEV like Mark suggested.

That would be this one correct? http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_D ... 80.210.htm
Thanks for that bit of info, an extra 20hp and less of a headache sounds good to me!

[So Cal Mark]

yes, that will work. Be prepared to make some mods when you install it. It's best with an 1800 intake, but your intake will work.

[NitroDemon]

yes, that will work. Be prepared to make some mods when you install it. It's best with an 1800 intake, but your intake will work.

What kind of mods will it require? Anything major? Sorry im a complete noobie when it comes to these cars

[So Cal Mark]

nothing major, mostly adapting linkage. If you stay with the 2L intake, the primary port will be smaller than the new carb.

[mbouse]

32/36 DFEV with a 1800 intake is the superior way to go. Good luck getting a ready made linkage piece for the conversion however. for some reason the major suppliers have stopped carrying that part. instead... you will have to scavange a part from your existing carburetor...but that is simple to do.

i see that the EGR valve has been removed, but i bet that the exhaust manifold is still sending exhaust gases to the intake side. if you convert to the 1800 intake, you will need to block off the supply of exhaust gas.

[NitroDemon]

Thanks guys that helps alot, If I upgrade to the new Carb I probly will end up using the original intake ( I dont have the biggest budget) And once I get my body work done and ready to put paint on the car im going to be pulling the engine. Might as well do things the best I can right? if anyones currious to see the cars current state i'll glady post a few pictures.

[So Cal Mark]

sure we love pics! Your current intake will work, but the 1800 is a better setup. It certainly can wait until the motor comes out for the swap

[NitroDemon]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45145303@N ... 910020776/
Theres a few pictures ive taken from the day I brought her home to her current state.