Wiper Relay / Wiper Motor Questions
Wiper Relay / Wiper Motor Questions
Alright, the wipers stopped working all of a sudden. Probably about the same time the ground issue started...
The wiper relay, I believe is on the back side, under the glovebox, towards the centerline of the car. I saw that it had, if I remember correctly, 1 red, 1 black, 2 blue, and 1 green cables (maybe some had strips/spots too).
Does anyone have the wiring diagram that inidicates which cable is which?
Or maybe a method (jumper) to bypass the relay to test the motor (and indicate a back relay)?
I assume the relay is bad...
My '78 wiper motor has a single 6 wire plug harness.
Is there a cable wiring diagram for the motor/plug?
The wiper relay, I believe is on the back side, under the glovebox, towards the centerline of the car. I saw that it had, if I remember correctly, 1 red, 1 black, 2 blue, and 1 green cables (maybe some had strips/spots too).
Does anyone have the wiring diagram that inidicates which cable is which?
Or maybe a method (jumper) to bypass the relay to test the motor (and indicate a back relay)?
I assume the relay is bad...
My '78 wiper motor has a single 6 wire plug harness.
Is there a cable wiring diagram for the motor/plug?
UPDATE:
I touched the outside of the motor, after I checked everything electrical, and guess what? Hot enough to fry bacon (and my finger)!!
I turned off the wiper switch and disconnected the linkage from the motor to the arms, the motor turns fine without the resistance from the stuck arm assembly.
What is the proper method to free up the linkage and prevent it from occurring again?
I touched the outside of the motor, after I checked everything electrical, and guess what? Hot enough to fry bacon (and my finger)!!
I turned off the wiper switch and disconnected the linkage from the motor to the arms, the motor turns fine without the resistance from the stuck arm assembly.
What is the proper method to free up the linkage and prevent it from occurring again?
Yep, it was the linkage "numbs" through the cowl that were siezed.So Cal Mark wrote:the piece that usually freezes up is the post that sticks thru the cowl. You'll need to completely disassemble it and clean it, then coat it with anti-seize. Lucky it didn't burn up the motor
I ran up to the local Advance and got some of that PB Blaster, disconnected the linkage from the motor and soaked everything in the Blaster (while I was in the parking lot). I had to give the linkage some encouragement to move, although I could still only manage about 1/3 of the full movement.
I then used the motor for some extra assistance and was finally able to get everything moving freely again. I sprayed all the metal to metal points with White Lithinum Greese.
After reinstalling everything, it turned out that one of the wipers would not sit back onto the numb. The ridges inside of the cup were not very well defined, so I wrapped a piece of crewing gum paper/foil wrapper around the numb.
Now, I have proper working wipers again!
So, I just need to wait for the next down-pour to test them under a load at highway speed!
Glad to hear that those steel "nubs" were freed from the aluminum housings. I used a lotta heat and WD-40, and elbow grease to free mine up.
I routinely (once a month) flush mine with WD-40 ever since. I still get quite a bit of rusty WD-40 washing out the bottom each time i do this. I wonder if i will ever flush out all of the corrosion that was built up over the years.
I routinely (once a month) flush mine with WD-40 ever since. I still get quite a bit of rusty WD-40 washing out the bottom each time i do this. I wonder if i will ever flush out all of the corrosion that was built up over the years.
PB Blaster does not evaporate, I would assume that blaster would work deeper and protect longer than WD-40, at least until the next rain/soaking.mbouse wrote:I routinely (once a month) flush mine with WD-40 ever since. I still get quite a bit of rusty WD-40 washing out the bottom each time i do this. I wonder if i will ever flush out all of the corrosion that was built up over the years.
I wonder if PB Blaster works as a good anitsieze or not? Constantly exposed to the elements, I wonder what would last and protect longest on the numbs?
antiseize is more of a paste, so I doubt it would run off like any thin oil. I use Zep45 which has teflon in it, but it's thin and eventually runs off. Also, anything wet will let dirt stick to it and may make the problem worse in the long run. One of the reasons you should never use lubricant like that on carb linkage or locks
-
- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
-
- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
-
- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC