Coolant

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:56 pm

I have seen this subject discussed on this forum previously, but specifically not this item.

I have just replace my carb and intake and exhaust manifolds, I drained the coolant system.
All is well except I have an air lock at the bootom hose to the external thermostat.

On IAPs website their tech bulletins states that If you have a SAVARA thermostat which is my case.

Then you may want to drill a 1/8" hole inside the tstat lower hose wall to allow small amount of coolant to go from lower to upper. IAP has a diagram of this .

Has anyone had any experience in doing this operation?

Should I follow this procedure,
or should I drain the system again and start over by filling a section at a time.

Note I installed the t fitting from prestone at the top of the heater hose.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:42 pm

drilling the hole is a good idea, I've been doing it for years. Besides making it much easier to fill the system, it's sort of a failsafe in case the stat ever sticks shut. Believe it or not, that tiny bit of flow will keep the engine from melting down. It will still run hot, but not cause engine failure

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:00 pm

Mark

I drilled the hole this morning and refilled system, seems to have solved the problem

thanks.

I have another question.

I completed the carb change on my 79 spider I used a 32/36 DFEV weber.

I have an automatic transmission.

When I took it for a test ride the accleration was very good, however my transmission did not change until I hit about 5000 RPM it almost feels like I have a standard tranny. Also I feel the same thing when slowing down I actually feel the tranny shifting into lower gear.

is this normal.

Again accleration is great.

Tony

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:36 pm

it's critical that the detent cable is hooked up, otherwise the tranny will fail soon. You may also have disconnected the vacuum hose to the trans modulator. That will cause late, hard shifts. That hose must go to manifold vacuum

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:48 pm

Mark

Is there a diagram or sketch i can refer to, to locate this vacuum line, and where i put it. There is one small metal tube that i have not connected yet. it is located on the firewall. could this be it.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 3:22 pm

the trans modulator line is a metal line that uses a short vacuum hose to attach to the intake manifold below the carb. As I recall on the auto trans models it attaches to the same fitting that the power brake booster hose attaches to.

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:22 pm

Mark

Thanks for the help

found it hard to believe that little tube caused that problem

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:27 am

Mark
In reference to my automatic 79 spider

hooked up that vacuum line this AM

Same problem persists, Tranny is not functioning.

I m sure it is this dent cable you refer to, the Manual also states a kickdown cable which is prob, the same thing. But for the life of me I can not find this cable and where it goes

Any advice as to where I should be looking and where it connects to would be greatly appreciated.

There is no fiat mechanic in our area that I know of TRhat I can ask.

Thank you

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:30 am

the detent (or kickdown) cable attaches to the tranny on the right side, near where the dipstick tube enters the trans. The upper end attaches to the carb linkage.
Make sure the lower end of your vacuum modulator line didn't detach from the modulator on the tranny

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:28 pm

Mark,
I had no idea we were discussing an automatic transmission when I talked Tony thru the carb change. therefore, i made no mention of hooking the kickdown cable back up. he went with a 32/36 weber w/out any superfolous ports; just fuel and dizzy vacuum. he also created all new vacuum connections at his "new" intake manifold. it is possible that he capped off the trans tube, in addition to or rather than a fuel return line. maybe a picture would help?

Tony,
Sorry, man. I thought we were working on a manual trans vehicle. Is it safe to say that the tranny operated correctly BEFORE the carb change? if so, then the issue is morenlikely directly related to either the kickdown or the vacuum tube.

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:48 pm

Mike

not your fault,

I assumed and you know what that means, that the carb swap had nothing to do with the tranny.

so it is a learning experience for me

and remember I would not of gotten this far with out your help.

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 2:09 pm

Mark

I believe I found the cable it is attached to the linkage, thats why I did not see anything loose. however it was loose but still attached to the carb linkage.

In trying to tighen I broke that little plastic fitting it runs through which is attached to the carb linkage.
I need to get another, any ideas.

also I need to put something on the cable at the end of that plastic fitting so that it will engage when the acclerator is pressed.

Thanks for your help and also Mikes.

It has been a larning experience.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:37 pm

you'll have to get creative to attach the cable, probably have to go to the hardware store.
Since you changed manifolds, you may not have a manifold vacuum port for the tranny. It's critical that you use manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum for the modulator, otherwise you'll have late, hard shifts

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:44 pm

Mark

thanks

on my way to Home Depot, as far as vacuum, I connected to a tee fitting where the brake booster is also connected.

again thanks for your advice

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:48 pm

mark

dumb question what is the difference between ported vacuum and manifold vacuum