azygoustoyou wrote:Yes the gauges come out toward the front.

Grazie!

Yes that is the stock wood dash panel, 1978, I think it is the last year of this kind of veneer.
All the wood on the dash is in great shape & Matt hooked me up w/ a good shift panel to match.

When I get to fixing the dash (warped/cracked) I am thinking about doing a nice polished clear finish over the stock pieces.

I too have the cloudy clock lense (doesn't everyone) I picked up an oil gauge to replace it, no stock oil gauge in the 78's.
I wanted to keep all the gauges sweeping the same way & bought an Alfa gauge that looks the same & swings from the bottom.
Hopefully the Alfa gauge will work with a Fiat sending unit (gauge style) from the earlier cars (same resistance?)

I did a mock-up of what I hope she will look like sometime next spring:

Plan on the bronze Rota wheels & 205/50-15's
Already cut the front springs when I did the control arms which has settled to about 1" lower.
I will be cutting the rear springs soon to hopefully level it all out 2-3" lower.

Heres what I hope she will look like then (ala-Corel Draw)



(thanks grittracing, I borrowed the wheels off one of your pics)

I scored a 4-2-1 manifold & down pipe & heat shield on evilbay, arrived today.
This has been on my list, expecting to get one next spring but couldn't pass up the deal.

It's off a 74 1800 (4 stud joint flange), already cleaned up & painted w/ exhaust paint & all the studs chased w/ die & good nuts.





I have been reading on here lately the changes just this upgrade can make & am looking forward to getting it installed.

Wow. That looks spiffy. I have been thinking I'd do an exhaust upgrade in the future. Did you get an insane deal on that?

Yea the deal was good, it was up for bid but I got it for the min bid, nobody to bid against I guess.
Under $100 shipped for all the parts. Came in two packages on two different days.

I didn't used to even look at the "bid" items on evil bay, just "but it now" stuff, but I have found a few "deals" lately.
I got a 10-pack of 194 LED's (4 per) for $4.95 total (after a bidding war even, stated at .99) shipped from china, how can they profit on that??
Also got a Alfa oil pressure gauge for like $9 & the Fiat sending unit for like $7, collecting parts when I find a deal.

Awesome. Wish I knew what to look for. I have two engines in my garage and I don't even know if I need anything off them. Need to figure that out. Need to figure out what they came off too. Older spiders I believe.

jimmycakes401 wrote:Awesome. Wish I knew what to look for. I have two engines in my garage and I don't even know if I need anything off them. Need to figure that out. Need to figure out what they came off too. Older spiders I believe.

share some pics ,intake/head
get some of the numbers by the oil pump
as well as you motor in the car

DocGraphics wrote:Sneak peak of the new seats. Just got delivered today. (just sitting in car, not mounted)

Doc, curious how you are liking the seats after a few months now. They are the "PVC Leather" ones I assume?

I cut & bent up sheet metal patch panels to cover all the rust areas.
...
They pretty much cover the whole front & outer edges where the floor meets the edges.
...
Once everything is completely dry I will rivet the patches in with seam sealer around all the rust holes & under the edges of each, Then I will paint it all again with another coat of POR15.

Being new to all this, I wonder what the purpose of the sheet metal and the POR 15. Did you add the sheet metal for added structural strength?

txSteve, I am lovin' the seats, they really hold you in place & I'm not having to put stress on the steering during spirited cornering to keep from sliding around. The PVC leather is holding up good,a little wear on the drivers outside seam where I slide my butt in & out everytime I enter or exit the cockpit.

The sheet metal is patches for rust HOLES in the floor boards & the POR 15 seals & encapsulates the metal & rust so it can not progress or expand. None of my patches I would consider structural but I'm sure they don't hurt plus now the floors are all sealed up & waterproof (w/ drain holes)

hey doc when the weather is warmer (currently -31C toady) I will be applying the POR15, ez cool and new carpeting as well. My question is you mentioned waterproof with drain holes? Are they plugged? Did you POR15 the holes? If so did you put something in them to stop the POR15 from filling them?

Curious

Jay

I did my patches then gave everything 2 coats of the POR 15 then laid down a rubber membrane type sealer over that THEN cut the "V" shaped drain holes back thru it all. Circled in pic.
There are 6 or so on each side. I made sure they were bent down atleast enough that the POR 15 wouldn't seal them, about 1/8" to drain easily without being bent open so far that they would let road water in.



Oh...for it only to be warm enough to work on/drive mine, we havn't even seen above freezing for a high in a couple weeks.

Tax season is getting close & the new parts list is getting LONG...can't wait!

DocGraphics wrote:txSteve, I am lovin' the seats, they really hold you in place & I'm not having to put stress on the steering during spirited cornering to keep from sliding around. The PVC leather is holding up good,a little wear on the drivers outside seam where I slide my butt in & out everytime I enter or exit the cockpit.

Great to know. Thanks! The prices are really hard to beat.

DocGraphics wrote: The sheet metal is patches for rust HOLES in the floor boards & the POR 15 seals & encapsulates the metal & rust so it can not progress or expand. None of my patches I would consider structural but I'm sure they don't hurt plus now the floors are all sealed up & waterproof (w/ drain holes)

Sorry, should have been more clear. What I mean is why sheet metal + por-15 instead of fiberglass + por-15. The fiberglass approach seems easier; was just curious if using sheet metal would provide any additional strength.

And thanks for documenting all your steps. I found this very helpful and very inspirational ->

I did the fiberglass to patch a hole in my Courier floor but wanted to do sheet metal in the fiat.
I work at a sign shop & have access to all sorts of sheet metal drops to make the patches out of.
I guess it seemed to me that the metal patches would be more solid & permanent.
Nothing wrong with the fiberglass way.
I had thought about using fiberglass in some of the areas that I didn't think I could do metal patches but I was able to form up metal patches for all the holes.

From what I can tell from your pic you have got a more solid starting point than I did. Good luck & post up how it all turns out!