Tranny seals

[Divers]

I just bought a used Tranny from George (who is BTW a HUGE credit to this forum and probably the nicest guy I have never met

He suggested changing some "seals and gaskets" before installing the tranny and since I have pestered him enough I would like people to tell me what to change before I install (outside of the fluid). Not directly the tranny, but I have a new guibo to install already.

Many thanks!

Robert

[124JOE]

they sell a gasket set for the tranz
it should come with seals also

[Divers]

Joe,

Vick's sells a kit? Do you happen to know if thats what you are talking about?

Robert

[courtenay]

I don't profess to be anything close to an expert on things mechanical, but I would suggest the rear main seal on the engine would be a good one to replace while you've got the transmission and presumably the clutch out of the way. (If this idea is out of whack - please someone comment!!)

[So Cal Mark]

changing the rear main seal is a good idea while the tranny is out. Also a good time to swap the starter if it's acting up at all

[Divers]

OK

1. rear main seal
2. Will have the starter rebuilt


What about the clutch? For the money is it just easier to bite the bullet and do it now? Not sure how old the clutch is and not even sure how well it works since I never have driven the car

[majicwrench]

"Might as well change..." becomes a never-ending story. If your starter is working fine, why fix it?? If you clutch works fine, why change it??
Ok, I see you have never driven car so you don't know that the clutch works. Pull cover and look it over if you wish.
Just my way,
Keith

[vandor]

Remove the clutch pressure plate and check the disc for wear. How deep the grooves are will tell you how much life is left in it. No grooves = clutch is about to go away.
You can buy a gasket set with seals for the tranny:

http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... ey=GA9-455

BUT!!! It's not easy to change seals and gaskets on a transmission. To change the front seal you have to remove the bellhousing, not a huge deal, and that gives you a chance to replace that gasket. To change the rear seal you have to remove a circlip, pull off a spacer (puller may be required), then undo a 32mm nut you likely will need a deep 32mm socket for. It's all doable, just not as easy as some trannies where the seal is exposed.
BTW, you might aswell pop off the pan and check for any looming disasters inside While the pan is off hammer the areas around the boltholes flat again.

[124JOE]

ive had a bad deal when it comes to the tranz.it all started along time ago in a very different world when jobs were there and gas was affordable.

i got the car without 2nd gear.i drove it back from reno to wi,ok it was 94
i kept driving it untill 96 when 3rd went out
i had it rebuilt he didnt say any thing about a cracked case
he told me to drive it 500 miles i came back in 60miles
he felt bad and could do nothing for me
but he did find me a parts car with tranny
6 months after it was in it lost 2nd
oh well money lost

my advice is ether go cheap"throw it in with just what you can change"
or go big"do you know a good mecanic pesonaly?"and get it all fixed up for the rest of its life,because your going to take care of it.much like i do.

BTW its nice to be able to comunicate on here thanks all

[manoa matt]

As others have stated its a "while I'm at it" snowball type of situation. Since you have it all apart check the condition of the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft when the flywheel is removed. Also check the drive shaft support bearing and pillow block and the drive shaft universal joints. Check the condition of the clutch pedal and firewall. The pedal is notorious for bending over, and the firewall for cracks from metal fatigue where the clutch cable passes through.

The front oil seal on the transmission is not as straightforward as the other oil seals on the car. That seal is installed "backwards" in a stamped steel tube. The seal is not driven in until it bottoms out in the housing, rather it is installed at a calculated depth so the oil seal rides on a specific spot on the input shaft. If the seal is driven all the way into the seal carrier the seal will not locate on the proper section of the input shaft and the trans will leak oil rather quickly. The best method is to scribe a line on the seal carrier prior to removal of the old oil seal. The new oil seal is driven in gradually until the scribe line can be seen.

One of the most important things is to fill that trans with the proper GL-1 fluid.

rear main oil seal
rear main oil seal carrier housing gasket
pilot bearing/input shaft bearing
trans input oil seal
trans bellhousing to case gasket
guibo/doughnut
rear trans oil seal
trans pan gasket
GL-1 trans oil
clutch set
clutch cable

[Divers]

After an hour of swearing, got the starter out! Was on a role removing stuff to get the tranny out...but.....(there is always a but!). How do I get the clutch cable removed from the clutch fork! Do I really have to disconnect the pedal end? Maybe I am just tired...but it seemed ridiculous. Boy have I been spoiled rebuilding Jeep CJ's


Any help would be much appreciated.

Robert

[jsab]

There should be a 13mm nut on the cable at the fork. It is locked by a 10mm on top of it. Just back off the 10mm nut and then unscrew the 13mm adjuster nut. No need to remove it from the pedal.

[Divers]

Knew it would be simple...I had removed the lock nut, but not the larger nut...it looked like it was part of the cable itself. It all looks one piece? There is a crimp about 2 inches in front of the fork....will check again tomorrow.


Thanks

[vandor]

There should be a 13mm nut on the cable at the fork. It is locked by a 10mm on top of it.

It's 17mm, not 13.

[narfire]

I'll use vise grips on the crimp when adjusting or backing off the 17 mm cable nut. I find the cable spins otherwise