I live in Montreal Quebec and Im sick and tired of snow. I have never seen so much snow.
I am told spring is just around the corner but you couldnt tell from todays 60kmph winds and -5 celcius temperature.
I have to change my entire exhaust system. I made the mistake of going to a joke of a muffler shop a few years back and he welded parts on in order to McGuyver things together. So there pretty much isnt any part of the exhaust that is salvagable. My header is leaking and it gets me realy stonned, the muffler has a leak and is loud. Between the muffler and the header is straight pipping, no cat and no pre-silencer, very loud. I want to redo the entire exhaust. New muffler, pre silencer, header. No cat. I would preffer a single tipped Ansa muffler. Has anyone recently changed the entire exhaust and where could I buy all of the parts I will need at a fair price.
Oh by the way there is allot of exhaust smell and i realy feel sorry for the cars behind me in traffic. Could this by an incorrect air to fuel mixture in my carb?
I also need to change my radiator. Its the origional unit and is full of leaks and the welds have come appart. Man this is an expensive part, does anybody have a good source for this part at a fair price?
It is a de-smogged 1977 124 Spider
Exhaust and cooling
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dinosabella
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1977 Fiat 124 Spider
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manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: Exhaust and cooling
The best thing to do for the radiatior is to go to a radiatior repair shop and have them re-core it with a 3 row high effeciency core. I paid about $260 for my re-core in Hawaii, on the mainland it will be cheaper. Much less than a new radiatior, plus the 3 row high effeciency core is a better design than the 30+ year old fiat design. The cooling tubes are bigger and won't clog up like the origonal.
That sucks about the exhaust, but with regular carbon steel, and a bunch of welds, a few years is all that can be expected especially if you live in an area where they salt the roads. You can get all the necessary pipes and mufflers from the regular vendors. ( IAP, Vick Auto) Internet searching and ebay may prove cheaper for the parts, but you may have several sources rather than a one stop shop.
Where is the header leaking? If at the connection to the head then try some high temp copper RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket. The header bolts/nuts are notiorious for self loosening, try adding lock washers. If it is leaking at the slip connections to the down pipes then dissasemble and add some muffler sealant/mender on the pipes before re-assembily. If the header is cracked at a weld, then having a welder fix it will be far cheaper than buying a new header. A high temperature paint or better yet a ceramic coating to all the pipes and mufflers will make the whole system last considerably longer.
Make sure you have all the proper hangers and hardware to support the exhaust system. Too many welds or not enough hangers will cause premature failure and leaks. A flexible connection between the header downpipes and the cat is a good idea, and will eliminate stress fractures in the header pipes.
That sucks about the exhaust, but with regular carbon steel, and a bunch of welds, a few years is all that can be expected especially if you live in an area where they salt the roads. You can get all the necessary pipes and mufflers from the regular vendors. ( IAP, Vick Auto) Internet searching and ebay may prove cheaper for the parts, but you may have several sources rather than a one stop shop.
Where is the header leaking? If at the connection to the head then try some high temp copper RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket. The header bolts/nuts are notiorious for self loosening, try adding lock washers. If it is leaking at the slip connections to the down pipes then dissasemble and add some muffler sealant/mender on the pipes before re-assembily. If the header is cracked at a weld, then having a welder fix it will be far cheaper than buying a new header. A high temperature paint or better yet a ceramic coating to all the pipes and mufflers will make the whole system last considerably longer.
Make sure you have all the proper hangers and hardware to support the exhaust system. Too many welds or not enough hangers will cause premature failure and leaks. A flexible connection between the header downpipes and the cat is a good idea, and will eliminate stress fractures in the header pipes.
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So Cal Mark
Re: Exhaust and cooling
Actually, the oem Fiat radiators were really good, they had a very high fin count that you can't get in todays' cores. They plugged up like any radiator by allowing coolant to break down. If the core or header plate is leaking, it's time to replace it. There is a Volvo radiator that can be used that is similar in dimensions, but you'll have to fabricate mounts. It's a crossflow, so it cools better than the vertical design.
As for the exhaust, it's sort of expensive to build a high quality system. Most of the headers on the market aren't very good-either in design or materials. If you buy a cheap header, don't expect a performance increase or long life
As for the exhaust, it's sort of expensive to build a high quality system. Most of the headers on the market aren't very good-either in design or materials. If you buy a cheap header, don't expect a performance increase or long life
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zappi
Re: Exhaust and cooling
Hi Dino. I amfrom Montreal as well and I hapen to be a mechanic. I live in Pierrefonds. contact me if you like and I can direct you or even bring you to where you need to go. Hope to hear from you soon.