Installing 32/36 Weber and New Intake on my 79

[Pescado]

Hey guys,

So this winter one of the items on my to do list will be changing the stock carb and intake on my 1979 Spider. Looking forward to this install as from what I hear the performance improvement is significant.



I started looking at things and have already tried to replace the throttle linkage that came bolted on the new 32/36 to accept what's on the car and have already ran into my first question with this install. Everything looks like its connected right ( except for the missing lock washer seen in the video) but not sure if the choke plates are opening enough?



https://youtu.be/Fd3gTcMFcfk

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Your carb and choke appear to be operating normally, so there's nothing to fix. Here's why:

The opening of the choke plates is controlled by one of two mechanisms:

1. The timed electrical choke heater. You have an electric choke, and that electrical lug on it is supposed to be connected to a source of +12V when (and only when) the ignition switch is in the "on" position. After a few minutes, the heater element inside the choke slowly heats up and progressively opens the choke plates.

2. There is also a "mechanical override" of sorts. If you opened up both barrels on the carb all the way, a mechanical linkage opens the choke plates about 1/3 of the way. This is to allow the engine to breath, because if you floored the gas pedal and the choke plates were all the way closed, the engine would bog down. So, there is a linkage that opens up the choke plates somewhat to let air in. You still want some choke effect because presumably the engine is still fairly cold (since the choke is on), so it's not designed to open the choke plates all the way.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Thanks Bryan I thought that might be the case but with so little auto mechanic knowledge it appeared wrong…thanks for the additional info learning about these cars and mechanics has so far been a joy for my son and myself. We’ll post our progress as we go with this one.

[Pescado]

Good morning all,

So just a quick update with some pics. I have removed the old carb and old intake manifold and a huge squid made of rubber hoses, carb removal was easy mani not so much. I had to remove coolant T fitting so I could remove the timing belt cover so I could get to the plate behind the crank pulley’s as it gets bolted to one of the mani bolts and prevents the removal of the mani even with all the bolts outs. Got that all pulled off but sadly compromised the timing belt in the process as I put a gouge in it. Now adding in the timing belt replacement to my to do list. Couple questions…

-Is removing the crank pulley’s for cleaning/painting as easy as just removing the bolt?
-thinking of putting in a new starter at this point
-do you see anything that needs attention?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

-Is removing the crank pulley’s for cleaning/painting as easy as just removing the bolt?

In theory yes, but in practice, unfortunately no. It's actually a nut, and you can use either a 38mm or a 1.5" socket. The challenge is that it is often fiendishly tight, requiring an impact wrench to loosen. It does loosen in the normal direction, by the way. I have sometimes been able to remove it by putting the car in 4th gear and having someone hold the brakes while I used a long breaker bar to loosen it. Other times it takes an impact wrench, and the challenge there is getting a direct line of attack for the wrench. I have sometimes been able to remove the radiator, remove the nuts on the engine mounts, raise the engine as high as possible, and then use an impact gun through the front grill with long extensions. However, I tried this about a week ago on an '80 spider, and that nut just laughed at me.

-thinking of putting in a new starter at this point

Now is definitely the time to do it in terms of easiness. Many people like the gear reduction starters.

-do you see anything that needs attention?

Unless you know the timing belt tensioner bearing is fairly new, I'd replace it at the same time as you do the timing belt. In fact, if you suspect your water pump might be getting old, now is a good time to replace that as well. And, since you have easy access, I'd remove the radiator and give it a good flush with a garden hose. Run the water in the reverse direction as well, that is, in through the bottom outlet.

-Bryan

[dinghyguy]

Bryan is right about the bolt......but if there is no sheet metal cover tucked in behind you may not have to remove that pulley to get the new timing belt in.......you can test by removing the old one without cutting it.

I would also consider replacing the crankcase hose that went to the air filter and cleaning out that system since you have good access with the manifold off.

and if you have a non working clock you might want to install an oil pressure gauge instead, and need to add a Y and sender to the existing idiot light port. Also easy with the manifold out. But that leads to a bit of a wiring job, which leads to the dash out which leads to LED dash gauges.......

Welcome to scope creep
cheers
dinghyguy

[Pescado]

Thanks Bryan...sounds good. Water pump was replaced last year so good there, I'll order a starter and already have a timing belt kit that includes the tension bearing. While doing the timing belt I want to remove all the pully's and clean them up (maybe replace pending cash flow). Besides timing can the removal of pully's impact anything else?

[Pescado]

Bryan is right about the bolt......but if there is no sheet metal cover tucked in behind you may not have to remove that pulley to get the new timing belt in.......you can test by removing the old one without cutting it.

I would also consider replacing the crankcase hose that went to the air filter and cleaning out that system since you have good access with the manifold off.

and if you have a non working clock you might want to install an oil pressure gauge instead, and need to add a Y and sender to the existing idiot light port. Also easy with the manifold out. But that leads to a bit of a wiring job, which leads to the dash out which leads to LED dash gauges.......

Welcome to scope creep
cheers
dinghyguy

oh man... list keeps getting bigger. ya these are good thoughts I'll look into it.

[Pescado]

Going to attempt the crankshaft removal….the shop manual I’m using says to put the car in 1st gear with parking break on instead of 4th gear, not sure I trust the manual, does this make a difference? I try to read up as much as possible on all the tasks we are encountering before asking these questions but in the end I guess I’m using this site as a safety net before taking on the task, hope you guys don’t mind. We are truly enjoying working on this car and hope to one day contribute back to this site. Thanks for the help and will post progress as we go.

cheers,
Francis

[Nut124]

4th or 5th gear would hold the crank in place the best for the nut removal.

Removing the cam pulleys; the nut can be hard to loosen and the cams are hard to hold in place from turning unless you make or have a special jig or tool to hold them. If the cams turn while you work on them with power tools or long wrenches, the valves can interfere and bend in the worst case.

When re-installing the cam pulley bolts, I always use locktite and get them as tight as I can. I had an aux shaft pulley come loose one time after a rebuild.

I'd consider removing any and all sheet metal covers behind the timing belt for future ease. Or prepping them so they could be removed w/o removing the belt, pulleys.

[Pescado]

4th or 5th gear would hold the crank in place the best for the nut removal.

Removing the cam pulleys; the nut can be hard to loosen and the cams are hard to hold in place from turning unless you make or have a special jig or tool to hold them. If the cams turn while you work on them with power tools or long wrenches, the valves can interfere and bend in the worst case.

When re-installing the cam pulley bolts, I always use locktite and get them as tight as I can. I had an aux shaft pulley come loose one time after a rebuild.

I'd consider removing any and all sheet metal covers behind the timing belt for future ease. Or prepping them so they could be removed w/o removing the belt, pulleys.

Thanks Nut

sheet metal definitely not going back in nor the timing belt cover...I figure this way it can be inspected more frequently. I was successful getting that 38mm nut of with nut too much fuss ( kinda disappointing I was expecting a bigger fight LOL), put a chain wrench on the crank pully and wedged it on the garage floor with a piece of pipe and some wood. I removed the lower grille and threaded an extension through a hole in the front end (must be there for this purposed) and hit the nut with an impact gun....a few forward and reverse hits and Voila!

[Pescado]

Good morning all,

Managed to get the crank shaft pully, cam shaft pullies and timing belt off . Now I'm kinda falling into a rabbit hole as I keep removing parts thinking that I might as well clean up the engine block while I'm in here. While looking at the front of the block I did notice a lot of grud/oil at the bottom and now think I should change out the aux shaft gaskets as perhaps its coming from there or the crank shaft? Is this repair basically unbolt, remove old, and install new or can something go catastrophically wrong behind the scenes



Also wanted to know if I can now remove the parts seen below in the picture

[Anbele]

Yes. The parts you’re pointed out on your last picture can (should?) be removed. You’re going to have to try to find a plug though for the upper coolant hose intake. The parts on the fender wall can all be removed since they are no longer needed. The bolts used to attach these parts are usually repurposed for attaching new parts improvements, aka, new relays.
Also, going back a few pictures, yes, the oil crank “T” can be removed and painted. Look into “Eldest Builds” on YouTube…he has plenty of videos on a ‘79 engine rebuild.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

While looking at the front of the block I did notice a lot of grud/oil at the bottom and now think I should change out the aux shaft gaskets as perhaps its coming from there or the crank shaft?

It looks to me like your front crankshaft oil seal, and possibly the auxiliary shaft seal, are leaking. Very common on older engines, and note that the seal is usually the cause of the leak, not the gasket.

Notice the line of crud across the top of your water pump. This is from the timing belt slinging oil, and that oil likely came from the crankshaft front main seal. Now that you have the crankshaft pulley removed, this is the time to replace the oil seal in the front carrier (along with a new gasket). Since you've come this far, I would also replace the aux. shaft oil seal and gasket.

Once you remove the seal carrier, the seal can be punched out from the rear with a large punch or even a screwdriver. It will destroy the seal, but you're going to replace it anyway. I'll be you find that your seals are hard and brittle rather than soft and pliable.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Yes. The parts you’re pointed out on your last picture can (should?) be removed. You’re going to have to try to find a plug though for the upper coolant hose intake. The parts on the fender wall can all be removed since they are no longer needed. The bolts used to attach these parts are usually repurposed for attaching new parts improvements, aka, new relays.
Also, going back a few pictures, yes, the oil crank “T” can be removed and painted. Look into “Eldest Builds” on YouTube…he has plenty of videos on a ‘79 engine rebuild.

Great videos...thanks