Brake options

[Mark_vaughn]

My front divers side brake is a little "sticky", not good when you hit the brakes and it wants to pull into traffic!! So I am trying to find out what my options are.

Has anyone used one of the caliper rebuild kits with any success?

Are there options out there to upgrade the brakes in the process?

I want to get this thing fixed soon so I can stop taking all back roads and avoiding traffic.

[racydave]

If your car veers left under braking, It sounds like right brake is not working. Like all caliper repairs, check to see if the bleeders will open and close. A lack of fluid with brakes applied could indicate a collapsed brake hose which does happen often. If the caliper piston or caliper bore are gaulded, replace the calipers. always replace or repair in pairs. Re-built calipers are not expensive. A worn front end componet may cause the same problem. Also loose wheel bearings will.

[So Cal Mark]

the front calipers are pretty easy to rebuild. The only upgrades are pad quality, braided steel hoses and slotted rotors. The next step is larger calipers and rotors. Whoa Brakes has a system for the Spider, most other systems would take some custom fabrication and more $$$$$

[Mark_vaughn]

It sounds like the front left brake is "scratching" when I make a right hand turn without the brakes applied. Could this indicate something.

I just replaced the rotors and pads, I thought it might be just seating itself.

[So Cal Mark]

turning changes the load on the wheel bearings and rotors. Did you inspect and repack bearings? Check the bearing tightness? Sometimes the dust shield can get tweaked during repairs and rub the rotor on turns.
When you replaced the pads, did the pistons retract easily? Did you clean the caliper slides and coat them with caliper hardware grease?

[Mark_vaughn]

Another question. I rebuilt the calipers, new disks, new pads, new brake lines and rubber hoses. The car brakes much better, but still wants to pull to the drivers side under braking. I can lock both of them up, so I know they are working. Here is the thing. When I replaced the brake lines they were not pre-bent so I just put it back the way it was. The pass side goes directly to the master cyl. The drivers side goes to a smaller unit the is connected to the master cyl, but also has a tube going back to the rear. I guess like a splitter of some sort.

Could the problem be that the two front wheels are connected in different ways? Could there be a pressure difference between the two connections?
My Haynes manual doesn't give a diagram on how they should be setup, so if someone would be so kind and take a look at their working setup, I will be greatly in debt.

I would like to fix the problem and not have a suicide car, always wanting to dive into on coming traffic!!

[Mark_vaughn]

Here is a pic of what I am talking about.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10294982@N00/234283133/

The line at the top is the pass front, and the line at the bottom going into the splitter thing is going to the drivers. Drivers has alot more braking power. Any guidance?

[mdrburchette]

This may be how yours is setup so it may not help, but here's how mine is:
At the m/c farthest from the firewall, the line goes into the "splitter" and heads to the rear brake compensator.
Left side closest to firewall goes to splitter, then left front wheel.
Right side closest to firewall goes straight to right front wheel.

[Mark_vaughn]

That is how mine is setup as well. Thanks, one less thing it can possibly be.

[Mark_vaughn]

Problem solved.

I changed the tie rod ends and center link, got an allignment, and problem solved. Thanks for everyone's help.

Mark

[mdrburchette]

Good deal, Mark.