Distributor and Overflow Bottle Heat Shield

[azygoustoyou]

I'm making a stainless heat shield for the distributor and the overflow bottle. Here's what I got so far. You would have to get (or maybe I could add them in the set) the two screws that hold the cap to the distributor. They would be longer than the original ones and the stainless cover would connect from the bottom of those two screws with a lock washers and nuts. Locktite of course. I'm thinking of selling this as a set. Would you be interested?????
Let me know of any downfalls of this design. I think this would be good for everyone with headers for sure.
What do you think would be a fair price? It took me about an hour and half to make this one. But I was still figuring it out.

[wachuko]

Reason for the need of a heat shield? Is excesive heat a problem in that area? If that is the case, I am interested on a set.

I will also be installing Mark's headers in my car.

[azygoustoyou]

yes that's why the overflow bottle turns yellow

[wachuko]

yes that's why the overflow bottle turns yellow

OK then, put me down for a set.

[mbouse]

hmmm.... looks like that shield might work to trap the hot air from the exhaust manifold right inbetween the dizzy and the shield. or, is that my imagination?

does that shield have a bottom to it?

[wachuko]

As far as ideas/suggestions:

Make sure the cut out for the cable is good enough to avoid any vibration cutting the wire.
Ceramic coat it to avoid/minimize heat transfer

[azygoustoyou]

It has folded over tabs. I guess I'll have to add a bottom if you think the heat would just go in between. Any other issues?

[manoa matt]

The heat destroys the vac advance diaphram, everything else in the dizzy will stand up to the heat. I don't see the vac advance module on that distributor, I doub't you could mount it with the heat shield. Even if you do, it will be near impossible to install and adjust the distributor, its hard enough as is.

I tried a heat shield for the vac advance a while ago. I first wrapped the vac module with woven header wrap, then made a pretty aluminum cover. Within two weeks the diaphram was cooked. I replaced the vac advance, removed the heat shield, and the vac module is still working after 1 year of daily driving.

If you are installing Marks headers then you need a metal coolant overflow bottle (Like he has on his own car.) OR move the mounting bracket for the overflow bottle to the passenger side fender and up about 1.5 inches and keep the bottle filled with water, otherwise it will melt.

[azygoustoyou]

SO your saying this is useless. What if I made a heat shield that connected on top of the bolt that holds the distributor on and ran it up around the distributor leaving room to adjust the vacuum advance. Or is this a loosing battle because of the advance? Trying to be helpful.
I plan on making this with a bottom and it being riveted to what you see. So if there are people out there with no vacuum advances on their distributor and would be interested. Let me know.

[Fiat88]

I would be interested in the overflow bottle heat shield, my old one came to me slightly melted from the PO. Replaced it with a new one.

[SpiderJim]

How about a different approach... Say making some kind of plenum type tube that gathers cool air from the grill area and blows it across the bottle and also the dizzy. If it was blocked at the end (assuming the dizzy area) then had two outlets one for the bottle and then another to the dizzy. Varying the the outlet sizes will provide more or less flow to the device needing it the most simple thermal dynamics. Unfortunately metal working is not my area but I would think something coming up from the lower section of the engine compartment from the grill areas or maybe a scoop input from directly under the bottle to catch the air as you move. I can imagine it on my Fi but not sure how the older vehicles are setup...

[So Cal Mark]

a shield with an air gap will work very well as a heat block. I believe your shield needs to be underneath the dizzy, not on the sides.
As for cars with my header, as long as there is an air gap between the bottle and header, and the bottle is at least half full there shouldn't be a problem. I ran the stock bottle on my car for a few years, until I found a deal on the aluminum bottles.
On most cars we lift the bottle up on the bracket for clearance. That procedure is detailed in the installation instructions.

[azygoustoyou]

Mark, How much is the Aluminum bottle and could you show a pic?

[So Cal Mark]

I have a new alternative supplier for those, and it's been awhile since I bought any from the original supplier. I'll have to check the current prices and get back to you. The bottle is visible in some of my recent posts (idf manifold, ignition video), but I'll take pics of the bottle specifically tomorrow

[mbouse]

a shield with an air gap will work very well as a heat block. I believe your shield needs to be underneath the dizzy, not on the sides.

this is what i had in mind. and there MUST be the air gap. touching will conduct the heat at the point where the two components touch.