Mismash

[baltobernie]

New member with a new car, 1973 Spider. The more I explore, the more I'm convinced that the car has lived in a rust-free environment. Only one nickel-size hole in the right rear floor, and perforation in the battery box area.

Trying to get it to the "sunny day driver" stage over the winter. Knew she needs clutch, head gasket etc., began with disassembly to prepare pulling engine/transmission.

The good news: new alternator and starter, engine mounts and doughnut in good shape.

The bad news: engine has been replaced - s/n 132A1.040.6 That makes it 1756 cc (1800) engine, right? The cylinder head has four threaded inserts that have been cut off and sealed. Abandoned air injection? The crankshaft pulley has two "extra" grooves that are unused. Air pump and ? Cold compression is 95, 100, 100, 95, which isn't too bad for a "smog" engine.

Now the weird part: the carb is a Weber 28/36 DHSA, with vacuum secondary. I'm looking at a Bayless catalog, and it says that the stock 132 engine has a 23/27 carb. Mine has the multiple fuel inlet "Christmas tree" typical of a smog motor, and nothing appears to have been jerry-rigged, although what seems to be a fast idle step spring was unattached at one end. Any ideas as to this carb/engine combination?

Bernie

[So Cal Mark]

the ports in the head are air injection ports. The carb would be from a 79. Overall, the 1800 swap isn't a bad thing, I prefer it to a 1600 for street use and parts are the most plentiful for that motor. Start looking for a 32/36 carb though, it will give a substantial perf increase.
It's very common to find a bunch of mismatched parts in these cars, hell, I'm guilty of piecing together all sorts of combos to put cars back on the road and improve performance. As long as you put together the best pieces rather than the worst it works out just fine

[baltobernie]

Thanks Mark -

I will reassemble using what I have, with new rubber parts where applicable. Wish me luck in getting the first and second exhaust sections apart! My engine hoist buddy suggested a large-diameter hose clamp, cinched as tightly as possible, around the doughnut before removing. He says that otherwise it is impossible to align the holes and bolts when reassembling. I guess they relax and expand once in service for a while

BTW, is it necessary to remove the center link from the front suspension to remove the engine & transmission as a unit?

[mdrburchette]

BTW, is it necessary to remove the center link from the front suspension to remove the engine & transmission as a unit?

Yep, the centerlink has to be disconnected. I also pull the radiator for more clearance.

[So Cal Mark]

I don't normally remove both eng and tranny together, but you'll need to get the car up as high as possible to tilt the assy.

I also don't use a clamp on used doughnuts. A little prying with a bar is all it takes to line up the holes again but if you have a clamp large enough, why not use it?

[baltobernie]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I guess my Jag-you-are friend has had different doughnut experience. Maybe Krispy Kreme.

This may be Extraction Weekend, but I would like to attend my first DC Fiat club meeting on Sunday afternoon. Any of you folks going?

[mdrburchette]

Hope your doughnut friend will help you when you pull the engine/tranny out. It's a two person job but not that hard. One person underneath to tilt the tranny and guide it and the other on the top side lifting the engine and pulling it out. Just make sure you remember to disconnect the starter connectors before you start pulling! Now would be a good time to replace the centerlink, especially if you disconnect it with a pickle fork. Just some advice from experience Personally, I bought a big hose clamp at Lowe's to use on the doughnut so I don't know how hard it would be to put on without. Good luck!

[baltobernie]

I chicken'd out when I heard that the center link must be removed. The front suspension feels pretty good, and I'm not ready for "the hip bone connected to the thigh bone" etc. on yet another part of the car.

The head came out in situ without a lot of trouble. Only broke two exhaust bolts. Plus, now I've got a clean shot at the two top bellhousing bolts, which look like they'd be a bitch to remove from underneath. The top-right bolt is missing, either vibrated out, or was not installed when engine was swapped. I've found a few other missing fasteners in tight quarters during teardown. The vertical clamp on the heater pipe was not connected. Upon reinstall, does it get attached to an exhaust stud? Any one in particular?

[So Cal Mark]

it goes on the center exh stud

[baltobernie]

the ports in the head are air injection ports. The carb would be from a 79. Overall, the 1800 swap isn't a bad thing, I prefer it to a 1600 for street use and parts are the most plentiful for that motor. Start looking for a 32/36 carb though, it will give a substantial perf increase.
It's very common to find a bunch of mismatched parts in these cars, hell, I'm guilty of piecing together all sorts of combos to put cars back on the road and improve performance. As long as you put together the best pieces rather than the worst it works out just fine

something like this?
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_D ... 80.210.htm

• 1. this model looks like it will fit the stock air cleaner, yes?
  2. do I want this version, with "linkage rotating clockwise"?
  3. should I take this opportunity to convert to a cable throttle linkage?

[So Cal Mark]

that is the model I use. If you have the cam cover mounted bellcrank linkage it will work fine with that carb. You just have to use the piece of of your carb with the ball stud on it.