Carb spacer & gaskets..

[TulsaSpider]

Well I solved the vapor separator issue today, and after a few troubles got it all back together. I was wondering why it wouldn't run until I noticed I had no gas, someone must have helped themselves... anyways...
Now I have a bad idle. If I cup my hand over the carb the idle smooths out. Vacuum leak right?
I looked around but couldn't find anything. I did have the carb off. I noticed that what I am assuming is a spacer, is heavily indented with the shape of the carb base and I noticed that it was flaking a bit due to deteriorization. There was no gasket on top of this, but there is one under it. I am thinking this may be the issue. The kit I got for the head had a few gaskets in it but with the level of indentation on that thing it sure won't seal. Could I use silicone until I can locate a new one?
here's the pics..

the spacer, I hope you can see the raised areas.


The gaskets that came in my kit. Just to be sure.. Which ones to use where?
Thanks
Clark

[racydave]

Silicone wont hold up to the fuel, itll make a mess, Ive done it. How about some sandable epoxy?

[TulsaSpider]

Sandable epoxy?
What about mating the carb directly to the intake using a gasket of course?

[SpiderHead]

Or, don't sweat it.

Buy a square foot of Garlock blue, 1/64" thick gasket from any local industrial gasket house. Trace the outline onto the new material, and cut it out with a sharp x-acto knife.

Garlock blue will handle any petroleum service well over the "blow up" temp of a car. I sell and rebuild industrial pumps for a living, and most of those pumps are in the refineries, and gas pipeline service... you can trust me on this. It will cost maybe $5.00, and you will have some left over.

-Ryan

[TulsaSpider]

Ryan I have gaskets, two black rectangular ones and one shaped like the carb base. See pics above. I guess I'll even out the raised areas as much as I can and install the gaskets and see what happens. Does anyone know, should I just use the black ones or should I use the one that looks like the carb base on top?

[manoa matt]

You got a few options:

Use the thick imprinted gasket and make sure the imprints mate up to the carb base, and possibly use some gasket cement/adhesive, not RTV sealant.

Use the two gaskets that came with the head kit and double them up.

Better yet, buy a phenolic 5-7mm spacer and sandwich it between the two gaskets from the head kit.

Buy a carb rebuild kit and get a new thick gasket

[TulsaSpider]

Hi Matt!
Who has the spacer for sale by itself?
Why do these things happen on a weekend when everyone is closed?
Thanks for the input!
Clark

[lanciahf]

Try Bayless first, they has nice ones also try Weber Carbs Direct, I have used them in the past with great success, meaning I received the part in a timely manner.
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/99005.119.htm

Bayless Page # 54, part # 14 or 11

But if you are in a hurry go to you local auto parts store and ask for a rebuild kit for a Ford Pinto with a holley/weber carb.

[manoa matt]

IAP also has a 7mm carb spacer, I think, but am not 100% sure its phenolic. #31766 $12.95

[TulsaSpider]

Well that seemed to have worked. I trimmed it as smooth as I could and put the 2 new gaskets on. I drove about 10 miles home. It died twice for some reason when I had to put on the brakes for a car in front of me. It hasn't done that since. The idle is smooth and I have it about 1000RPMs for now. It's running better than ever actually. No signs of water in the oil although I will keep a close eye on it! I noticed that my speedo cable broke again, I must have put it in a bind when I was wrenching, small price to pay I suppose...
I am feeling much better about it!
Thanks again guys!
Clarkl

[rlux4]

Good to hear that Clark. I hope the other issues in your life at the moment are smoothing out as well. I admire your perseverance.
Ron

[TulsaSpider]

Thanks Ron, survival is a powerful motivator!!