Finally. Wanted a Spider..more details!

[wizard124]

I haven't really driven it at all since rolling it off the trailer....actually my wife drove it up and down the block. Good to get her on-board

First issue was no Charge light. Traced it to a bad alternator contact. I tried to pull the alternator apart, thinking it may just be a loose ground wire. Well, I couldn't get the innards free...like the shaft is stuck in the rear bearing. Anyone shed some light on this? Yes, I was able to remove 3 small screws which mount a plate to the casing...The brushes looked good, the windings are connected. Gave up and have one on order. I would still like to know how it comes completely apart!

This led me to a complete check of the idiot and instrument lights in all the 5 gauges. Took a good look at the connectors......I discovered one of the connectors in that last connector going into the ignition switch was not seated and had been arching and smoking the connector itself. I took this opportunity to wire tie each wire bundle near its connector so to try to prevent any single plug from backing out again..

In my introduction, I mentioned a truck load of parts I was given with this purchase. Turns out there was a new Quartz clock mixed in. Installed! the old one is working (I don't know how accurate it was), but its face is a bit fogged up. The dash and gages now look really clean.

I still need it to pass CA smog. So, I began the simple steps involved in a tune-up today. The old plugs looked pretty good, decent brown burn patterns, with some carbon on the thread ends. Is this carbon pretty typical? Or, oil bypassing the rings? The threads themselves didn't appear oil soaked. I did a compression check next and was absolutely thrilled with the results! 151 to 155 psi on a cold engine. Installed new Bosch plugs. Replaced the cap and rotor (also new parts from my stash!). New plug wires and air filter coming tomorrow.

Looking forward to firing her up once the alternator arrives! Change the fluids, check the cooling system. More to come

Warren

[RRoller123]

If it is not documented as to when the timing belt was last changed, it is generally recommended that it be changed asap.

Those original clocks in working, accurate condition are getting valuable! You can get a new glass installed by Palo Alto Speedometer, or there is a thread on the forum here about how to do it yourself. Sounds like a fun project!

[spidernut]

Where are you located in California?

[4uall]

Hello & welcome to the best place on earth

I would still like to know how it comes completely apart!

This might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cCWS08QxeI

Clock glass can also be replaced

http://www.autoricambi.us/product/RI0-488/Clock-Glass/

post some pics

[wizard124]

Now, I am stumped!! Need your input........

The car is running really rough, smoking, laying a soot footprint on the garage floor.

While waiting for my alternator to arrive, I changed plugs, wire, rotor, and cap, put in correct fuses and cleaned the fuse box contacts. I pulled one of the relays in the fuel pump/FI circuit. I did a compression check while this was left disconnected. Discovered there was no air filter in the box so, I installed a new one. Pretty basic maintenance items.

Today, I installed the replacement alternator. The "No Charge" warning light illuminates and goes off when the engine is running. Got that resolved!

But the engine is barely able to run and won't idle. So, I started re-tracing my previous steps. Put on the old cap and rotor...no difference, Checked resistance of the new plug wires from inside the new cap contacts to the plug ends...all good. Swapped the old plugs back in....no help. The pulled plugs were really carbon fouled. Even tried running it with the air filter box separated so as to not draw air through the new filter....no change. Also shifted the plug wires at the cap back and forward one contact, thinking the distributor could be mis-installed by the PO. Didn't run at all.

Did I screw something up by pulling that FI relay and then doing the compression check?

When I had the distributor cap off, I hit those 2 small centrifugal plates with WD40. Did this mess with the static timing? The ignition sequence is 1-3-4-2 right? With #1 being the forward cylinder...right! The Italians don't have a different system do they?? I have to think there is a simple fix to this.....

The only other item that comes to mind was the loose terminal with the Blue and Blue/Red wires in the 31 connector leading to the ignition switch. This didn't appear to be deliberately disconnected...just rubbing together.

The engine had been running really smoothly during my test run and the following day when I got it home. I just have to believe I messed things up and want to look at my actions before touching/changing other things...

[vandor]

Check the connector on the FI temp switch, in the coolant T on the front top of the engine. If it is not making good contact the FI will think the engine is very cold and will richer the mixture to the max!

[wizard124]

Where are you located in California?

I am in San Rafael, SF bay area.

Check the connector on the FI temp switch, in the coolant T on the front top of the engine. If it is not making good contact the FI will think the engine is very cold and will richer the mixture to the max!

Vandor, thanks for your input. I found the problem! I had noticed a tear in the boot of the air flow sensor connector. I wrapped this with electrical tape to seal the inner wires from the elements. Apparently, this caused some inner problem. I re-traced my steps and wiggled this wire bundle and it fired right up and idled smoothly!

I worked through the cooling system as she was idling in the driveway. Flushed the system with a Napa product, re-placed the short section of hose as it was leaking at the water pump inlet, wire brushed the aluminum hose ends, and added some Zerex anti-freeze.

Then, I changed the oil and filter using a Wix filter and Mobil Delvac 15w-40. I hadn't seen many posts on this subject.

My 11 year old son just joined me for a short drive. Some vibration noticed in first and second gear when accererating. I am hoping this is a u-joint as I am not feeling it through the shifter or in the higher gears. Fourth still grinds. Brakes need to be bled but isn't pulling to one side...just spongy.

Weather permitting, tomorrow I'll change the transmission lube (bought some Redline MTL for this) and check out the u-joints.

My nose tells me it is still idling rich. But it runs nice and feels very peppy! I only have a few road miles on it since bringing it home.....I am wanting to take it easy until I get the fluids replaced.

Still something going on with the electrical system. In re-starting the engine, that "No Charge" light didn't come on and the alternator wasn't charging the battery (reading a nominal 12V at its rear stud). After a few hours with the charger on, the warning light comes on and its putting out 14V at idle. Tomorrow, I'll take that battery down to the parts store to get checked out.

Once I get it to run reliably, I still need to get it smogged. The FI and exhaust system all appear to be stock. Anyone have any experience with their car in California they want to share? I may opt to have it pre-checked so that it doesn't get labeled a "Gross Polluter" and avoid the ensuing nightmare. Are these cars difficult to pass CA smog checks?

[vandor]

>My nose tells me it is still idling rich

You can adjust idle mixture with the 5mm allen bolt on the AFM. It is usually covered with an aluminum plug you have to drill out.

[wizard124]

I didn't make it down to have the battery checked. The alternator light was working this morning and was putting out 14V. So, I put this check on the back burner.......Then later in the day, again no light and no charging output! I happened by my boat mechanic during my afternoon test drive. He felt the alternator to be warm and surmised it was charging? It did feel warm and only after about 10 minutes and a few miles of driving. Got it home and no output via the multi-meter. Does the VR cycle the output based on the battery charge or is it a constant 13-14V? Really puzzling issue!

I got under the car for a lube. That Redline MTL sure has a thin viscosity. Put some 80W90 Valvoline in the rear end, that old oil was dirty with some sludge clinging to the drain plug. No metal in either plug.

The forward u-joint has play in it and the driveshaft suspension whatchamacallit is allowing the shaft to sag; don't know about that bearing. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this is the reason for the vibrations....although I am expecting it may turn out to be with the transmission bearings.

First priority is the engine and passing smog. I just want to run it some miles and put some clean 91 octane fuel and conditioner through it to give it the best chance of passing the test the first time.

[wizard124]

So how did my day go??????

I put a charge on the battery overnight. Jumped in and the No Charge light worked, fired it up, and checked the alternator output....ahhhh, good output.

Went for a spin. First short drive down the freeway. I had those vibrations in 1st and 2nd and no 4th syncro. Ran it to maybe 70 mph. Plenty fast for the old rubber beneath me. The hardtop rattled a bit and the window seals leaked, but it was pretty solid. No steering vibrations or pulls.

Back into the driveway, to turn down the idle. On re-start, again, no alternator light and no charge! Ran the battery down to be tested. Wrong group number but it tested good.

Ran it to the smog test station. CO was way high and it failed! "Gross Polluter" Got to love living in California! Geeeez the hassles never end!

Off to a Fiat/Alfa mechanic I came to know a couple of weeks ago when I started my car search. He has a couple of Fiats and Alfas for sale BTW. Italian by birth.....great to shoot the sh-t with. As to the smog thing? I am now into it for a new catalytic converter and FI adjustment (I had done all I could do to tune it to this point). As to the alternator thing?? I gave up and handed this problem off as well. As Dirty Harry said, "A man has to know his limitations!".

The good news is he thinks the motor runs well (besides that smog thing..). He attributes the vibration to driveshaft issues. His only comment on the tranny was the 4th syncro.

Between my schedule and his...I won't post an update on my smog woes until late November.

Warren

[FiatDavidFiat]

Check ebay for the cat-converter.. much cheaper!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0 ... ter&_rdc=1

Also, did you pass the other 2 areas: visual inspection, and performance inspection? I had to have mine timed correctly for the performance end, and they made me hook up a couple hoses to pass visual.. boo!

[deftone]

The hardtop rattled a bit and the window seals leaked,

Warren

I wouldnt worry about this too much, it probably did that from when it rolled off the assembly line

Good luck with the smog solutions!

[spidernut]

A word of encouragement - replacing the u-joints, drive shaft support and flex disc isn't a very difficult job if you don't mind laying on your back for a while. It also isn't expensive (check out autoricambi.us for their drive line rebuild kit). With a good manual, it can be done by the at-home mechanic. Just make sure you mark the original alignment of the yokes and drive shaft so everything goes back together how it came out.

Once you find the problem with the emission test, you'll most likely find that the EFI cars pass emissions with ease as long as all the parts are working correctly. Be really thankful you don't have a carb'd car in this state.

[wizard124]

Once you find the problem with the emission test, you'll most likely find that the EFI cars pass emissions with ease as long as all the parts are working correctly. Be really thankful you don't have a carb'd car in this state.

Well, I left it with my Fiat mechanic. He likes a particular catalytic converter (I'll have to get under there and pull a name off it...). It is all welded in the place of the original. Clean installation. He said he played with a mixture adjustment, set idle speed, and adjusted the timing a little. The readings really dropped and passed smog quite easily. I'll reprint them here as it may be helpful to others:

15mph test: HC 164, then 66. max 227; CO 2.69, then 0.45. max 1.43; NO 1222, then 0. max 1414.
25mph test: HC 157, then 28, max 197; CO 3.16, then 0.48. max 1.23; NO 1027, then 4. max 1274.

Whew! I am quite relieved to get this to pass smog. Now, I can get it titled! Yes, I know it is the seller's responsibility. But he didn't want to deal with it and I didn't want to let the chance to buy this car slip by.

He also installed a new alternator, which seems to have solved the intermittent light and charging issue. My cheap Ebay alternator gamble didn't pay off.

He compiled a list of other fix-its. He made some of these items sound a bit challenging. Yes, he is drumming up some business, but are they really that difficult for the home mechanic???

1) U-joints and support and bearing. Do you need a special press for that support bearing? My thought is to drop the entire drive shaft and tackle the job while its laying on a work bench. Yes, I'm pretty sure I can tackle this.

A word of encouragement - replacing the u-joints, drive shaft support and flex disc isn't a very difficult job if you don't mind laying on your back for a while. It also isn't expensive (check out autoricambi.us for their drive line rebuild kit). With a good manual, it can be done by the at-home mechanic. Just make sure you mark the original alignment of the yokes and drive shaft so everything goes back together how it came out.

2) rebuild or replace the brake regulator (leaking).

3) Replace all FI hoses (cracked). Anything special about this? Looks like HP fuel lines and clamps....

4) Change shocks. I recall putting KYBs on my '71 coupe. Do you need spring compressors? He said the rears are more tricky??

5) No turn signals. Back to electrical issues....

6) Wipers inop....

I had the chance to wash the car this afternoon. I tried some wet sanding on part of the front fender......there may be hope for this paint job yet!

[spidernut]

Congrats on the smog test!!! That's fantastic. Time to get her on the road again!

On the other stuff:

1) U-joints and support and bearing: No special press is needed. I did it on my workbench with nothing other than a few basic tools and a vice. I pulled the entire drive shaft, did the work and re-installed. Not a difficult job in my opinion.

2) and 3) I defer to others

4) Change shocks. I've done all four at home - front don't require a spring compressor to change the shocks. The rears are much worse but you can do it this way: http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 1&start=15

5) No turn signals: Check bulbs and sockets first. Corrosion is your enemy! Can be the hazard switch, the turn signals switch, the signal relay, grounds, etc.

6) Wipers inop: Check the fuse first. If it is O.K., remove the cowling and check to see if the motor is turning...the drive gear can break rendering the wipers inoperable. If the motors is not running, disconnect it and check for voltage. If no voltage and the fuse is good, you'll have some work to do to find the disconnect. If there is voltage, disconnect the linkage and then see if the motor turns...sometimes the linkage is frozen. If there is voltage and the motor doesn't run, it is most likely a dead wiper motor. If the linkage is frozen, it is usually where the wiper shafts go through the cowling. Disconnect all the linkage, use a spray lubricant or rust penetrant and turn the wiper shafts until they turned freely. That should do the trick along with cleaning the other linkage and lubricating.